A unifying framework for shoreline migration: 2. Application to wave‐dominated coasts
A unifying framework for shoreline migration: 2. Application to wave‐dominated coasts
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海岸线迁移的统一框架:2. 在波浪主导的海岸中的应用
DOI:
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发表时间:
2009
期刊:
影响因子:
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通讯作者:
A. Murray
中科院分区:
文献类型:
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作者:
M. Wolinsky;A. Murray
[1] The Bruun rule, widely used to predict transgression due to sea level rise on decade to century timescales based on a fixed nearshore profile, neglects the influence of inland topography and substrate lithology, leading to physically unreasonable predictions on longer timescales. We use a new approach, the shoreline Exner equation, to model shoreline transgression on wave-dominated coasts over timescales of decades to millennia. Our results show that interactions between nearshore processes and inland topography, neglected by Bruun-style models, drive morphologic evolution which modulates shoreline retreat. Analytical solutions suggest that while short-term shoreline retreat will sometimes follow the Bruun rule, long-term transgression will always follow the slope of the inland topography. Moreover, our results show that the slope of the inland landscape, relative to the nearshore slope, exerts a first-order control on coastal morphology, such that steep coasts tend to form cliff-backed beaches while gentle coasts tend to form barrier island-lagoon systems. However compositional variations between the inland landscape and nearshore system can alter this pattern.