Waste, dirt and desire: Fashioning narratives of material regeneration
Waste, dirt and desire: Fashioning narratives of material regeneration
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废物、污垢和欲望：塑造物质再生的叙事
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发表时间：
2019
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通讯作者：
L. Norris
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作者：
L. Norris
消费由回收的纺织纤维废料制成的服装给买家带来了挑战，不仅因为担心质量下降，还因为担心“脏”和传染。这些担忧似乎存在于废弃衣服与未知身体的密切联系，以及对回收系统适当“清洁”这些材料并将其转化为可再次穿在身上的纺织纤维的能力的文化观念。尽管主流经济学家声称，延长纤维的流通时间不仅有利于环境的可持续发展，而且在经济上也有优势，但时装业目前只有不到1%的废弃材料被回收利用：在竞争日益激烈、仍以增长为重点的市场上，闭环商业模式确保了资源的安全。在这里，有人认为，在欧洲，朝着更循环的时尚体系的努力，将竞争的纯度框架带入了同一个领域，在这个领域，归因于服装卫生和清洁的文化价值观面临着可持续性和资源有效性的目标。制造商和零售商在试图将消费后的服装纤维重新制造成令人满意的时尚时，正试图就这些复杂的价值体系进行谈判，结果各不相同。这篇文章探讨了三种截然不同的情况，制造商和零售商尝试用机械回收羊毛为时装增加价值：柏林的道德时尚交易会，与英国高街零售商合作的纺织品专家，以及意大利普拉托的纱线批发商。这些例子揭示了当前将再生纺织材料象征性地重新排序为“清洁和绿色”而不是“旧和脏”的不稳定性，以及企业参与者如何在这个日益明显的前沿重新塑造他们对材料可持续性的叙述。
The consumption of clothing fashioned from recycled textile fibre waste poses a challenge for buyers not simply due to fears of a loss of quality, but also to fears of ‘dirt’ and contagion. These concerns appear to reside in cast-off clothing’s intimate links with unknown bodies, and cultural perceptions of the recycling system’s ability to properly ‘clean’ these materials and transform them back again into textile fibres that can be worn again on the body. The fashion industry currently recycles less than 1% of its own cast-offs back into clothing, despite mainstream economists’ claims that keeping fibres in circulation for longer is not only environmentally sustainable but also economically advantageous: closed-loop business models secure resources in an increasingly competitive market still focused upon growth. Here it is argued that the drive towards a more circular fashion system in Europe brings competing frameworks of purity into the same field, where cultural values ascribed to clothing hygiene and cleanliness are confronted with the goals of sustainability and resource effectiveness. In their attempts to re-make post-consumer clothing fibres back into desirable fashion, manufacturers and retailers are trying to negotiate these complex value systems, with variable results. This article explores three, very different, contexts where manufacturers and retailers experiment with adding value to fashion made from mechanically-recycled wool: an ethical fashion trade fair in Berlin, textile specialists working with a British high street retailer, and a yarn wholesaler in Prato, Italy. The examples reveal the current precarity of the symbolic re-ordering of recycled textile materials as ‘clean and green’ rather than ‘old and dirty’, and how corporate actors struggle to re-shape their narratives of material sustainability at this increasingly visible frontier.