Mechanical, chemical, biological: Moving towards closed-loop bio-based recycling in a circular economy of sustainable textiles

Mechanical, chemical, biological: Moving towards closed-loop bio-based recycling in a circular economy of sustainable textiles
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机械、化学、生物:在可持续纺织品循环经济中迈向闭环生物基回收

DOI:
10.1016/j.jclepro.2021.129325
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发表时间:
2021
影响因子:
11.1
通讯作者:
Ribul M
Ribul M
中科院分区:
环境科学与生态学1区
文献类型:
--
作者:
Ribul M

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由于对天然资源和化石资源的密集使用,以及与服装的制造、使用和处置相关的负面环境和社会影响,纺织业正面临越来越多的批评。这促使人们渴望走向纺织品循环经济,实施回收理念和技术,以保护资源、环境和人类。到目前为止,回收过程主要集中在纺织纤维的化学和机械再利用上。相比之下,除了报废堆肥之外,用于纺织品生产和回收的生物基工艺几乎没有受到关注。然而,与生物基技术相关的选择性和良性加工条件为循环纺织品生命周期和减少纺织品生产和加工对环境的影响带来了巨大希望。开发用于纺织品生产的循环和可持续系统需要一种革命性的系统方法,其中包括选择材料和设计用于在生命结束时回收的饰面,在这种情况下,生物基工艺可以帮助提供将材料保持在闭环中的方法。本文回顾了所有纤维类型闭环纺织品回收中机械和化学回收工艺的既定方法,以及展示开环纺织品回收的生物基工艺。发酵和酶促工艺已被证明可用于生产所有类型的纺织品,与报废纤维素纺织品的酶促解构相结合,可以使它们无限期地回收利用。在循环经济的背景下,生物基工艺可以扩展技术循环中的机械和化学纺织品回收机制,从而在堆肥发生之前实现生物循环中纺织品更大的循环性。
The textile industry is facing increasing criticism because of its intensive use of resources –both natural and fossil derived– and the negative environmental and societal impacts associated with the manufacturing, use and disposal of clothes. This has led to a desire to move towards a circular economy for textiles that will implement recycling concepts and technologies to protect resources, the environment and people. So far, recycling processes have been focused on the chemical and mechanical reuse of textile fibres. In contrast, bio-based processes for textile production and recycling have received little attention, beyond end-of-life composting. However, the selectivity and benign processing conditions associated with bio-based technologies hold great promise for circularising the textile life cycle and reducing the environmental impacts of textile production and processing. Developing circular and sustainable systems for textile production requires a revolutionary system approach that encompasses the choice of material and finishes being designed for recycling at the end of life, and in this context bio-based processes can help provide the means to maintain materials in a closed loop. This paper reviews established methods in mechanical and chemical recycling processes in closed-loop textile recycling of all fibre types, as well as bio-based processes that demonstrate open-loop textile recycling. Fermentation and enzymatic processes have been demonstrated for the production of all types of textiles, which in combination with enzymatic deconstruction of end of life cellulosic textiles could allow them to be recycled indefinitely. Within the context of the circular economy, bio-based processes could extend mechanical and chemical textile recycling mechanisms in the technical cycle, enabling greater circularity of textiles in the biological cycle before composting takes place.
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