ESTIMATION OF FREAK WAVE OCCURRENCE FROM DEEP TO SHALLOW WATER REGIONS
ESTIMATION OF FREAK WAVE OCCURRENCE FROM DEEP TO SHALLOW WATER REGIONS
复制标题
从深水区到浅水区的异常波发生的估计
DOI：
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发表时间：
2014
期刊：
影响因子：
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通讯作者：
N. Mori
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
H. Kashima;K. Hirayama;N. Mori
非线性四波相互作用放大深水波高，产生极端波，如畸形波。然而，目前尚不清楚的行为所产生的畸形波在深水浅滩浅水区。本研究针对从深水区到浅水区的单向随机波浪，进行了一系列物理实验和数值模拟。在深水区，三阶非线性相互作用使最大波高随峰度的增大而增大。由于斜坡上波浪变浅引起的二阶非线性相互作用，峰度对畸形波发生的依赖性减弱。此外，如果考虑对标准Boussinesq方程的不充分非线性度进行适当的修正（大于O（e^2）），则有可能理解高阶非线性的行为和浅水区的畸形波发生。
Nonlinear four-wave interactions amplify wave heights of deep-water generating extreme wave such as a freak wave. However, it is not clear the behavior of generated freak waves in deep-water shoaling to shallow water regions. In this study, a series of physical experiments and numerical simulations with several bathymetry configurations were conducted for unidirectional random waves from deep to shallow water regions. The maximum wave heights increase with an increase in kurtosis by third-order nonlinear interactions in deep water regions. The dependence of the kurtosis on the freak wave occurrence is weakened due to second-order nonlinear interactions associated with wave shoaling on the slope. Moreover, it is possible to understand the behavior of the high-order nonlinearity and the freak wave occurrence in shallow water regions if appropriate correction of the insufficient nonlinearity of more than O(e^2) to the standard Boussinesq equation are considered analytically.