When convenience is inconvenient: ‘healthy’ family foodways and the persistent intersectionalities of gender and class
When convenience is inconvenient: ‘healthy’ family foodways and the persistent intersectionalities of gender and class
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当便利变得不方便时：“健康”的家庭饮食方式以及性别和阶层的持续交叉性
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发表时间：
2016
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通讯作者：
J. Parsons
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作者：
J. Parsons
本文借鉴了一项关于食物关系的自动/传记研究的结果，以展示日常饮食如何继续受到性别和阶级交叉性的影响。继布迪厄[1984年。区分，对品味判断的社会批判。伦敦：“美食家"如何使用食物和食物方式（食物的生产、准备、供应和食用）作为资本的物质和文化展示（约翰斯顿，& Baumann，S. 2010.美食家，民主和美食厨房的区别。伦敦：伦敦），甚至是“烹饪之都”（Naccarato，P.，& LeBesco，K. 2012.烹饪之都伦敦：贝格）已经得到证明。很少有人研究母亲如何利用“喂养家庭”（DeVault，M。I. 1991.养家糊口。伦敦：芝加哥大学出版社）作为自己文化资本的来源。在我的英国研究中，75名受访者中有四分之三是父母，所有有受抚养子女的母亲都喂他们的家人“健康”食物，作为一种表现中产阶级特定习惯的手段。因此，我研究了母亲如何从事“健康”的食物工作，作为一种手段，定位自己作为“好”的母亲或“美味的木乃伊”（艾伦，K.，& Osgood，J. 2009.母亲的研究（1）。事实上，尽管几十年来在公共领域实现了性别平等，新自由主义主张个人主义，但“养家糊口”（DeVault，1991年）仍然是一项高度性别化的活动，现在还必须从头开始提供“健康”食物。在这些报道中，方便食品和/或“不健康”的家庭饮食方式被诋毁和厌恶，坚持“健康”的家庭饮食方式被用作在“有组织的努力”领域内划定界限的一种手段（Martin，J. 2011）。关于社会行动的解释，芝加哥：芝加哥大学出版社;萨维奇，M.，和席尔瓦，E. B。2013. Cultural Sociology，7，111-126）.本文认为“健康”的食品工作作为一个重要方面的“良好”的中产阶级母亲，从而“健康”的家庭饮食方式成为显着的表现和显示“适当的”中产阶级女性气质，病态的替代家庭饮食方式和“其他”女性气质。这有助于阐明性别和阶级的交叉性内的连续性，致力于“健康”的家庭食品中心的“面向未来”（中产阶级）母性身份。
This article draws on findings from an auto/biographical study about relationships with food to demonstrate how everyday foodways continue to be influenced by the intersectionalities of gender and class. Following Bourdieu [1984. Distinction, a social critique of the judgement of taste. London: Routledge] how ‘foodies’ use food and foodways (the production, preparation, serving and eating of food) as a material and cultural display of capital (Johnston, J., & Baumann, S. 2010. Foodies, democracy and distinction in the gourmet kitchen. London: Routledge) or even ‘culinary capital’ (Naccarato, P., & LeBesco, K. 2012. Culinary capital. London: Berg) has been demonstrated. There has been less work exploring how mothers use ‘feeding the family’ (DeVault, M. I. 1991. Feeding the family. London: University of Chicago Press) as a source of cultural capital for themselves. Three-quarters of the 75 respondents in my UK study were parents and all mothers with dependant children fed their family ‘healthy’ food as a means of performing a particular middle-class habitus. I therefore examine how mothers engaged in ‘healthy’ foodwork as a means of positioning themselves as ‘good’ mothers or ‘yummy mummies’ (Allen, K., & Osgood, J. 2009. Studies in the Maternal, 1). Indeed, despite decades of gender equality in the public sphere and neo-liberal assertions regarding individualism, ‘feeding the family’ (DeVault, 1991) continues to be a highly gendered activity, with the added pressure of now having to provide ‘healthy’ food cooked from scratch. In these accounts, convenience foods and/or ‘unhealthy’ family foodways were vilified and viewed with disgust, with an adherence to ‘healthy’ family foodways used as a means of drawing boundaries within fields of ‘organised striving’ (Martin, J. 2011. On the explanation of social action, Chicago: University of Chicago Press; Savage, M., & Silva, E. B. 2013. Cultural Sociology, 7, 111–126). This article considers ‘healthy’ foodwork as a significant aspect of ‘good’ middle-class mothering, whereby ‘healthy’ family foodways become significant in the performance and display of ‘proper’ middle-class femininity that pathologises alternative family foodways and ‘other’ femininities. This serves to illuminate continuities within the intersectionalities of gender and class, with a commitment to ‘healthy’ family foodways central to ‘future oriented’ (middle classed) maternal identity.