Nourishing or polluting : redefining the role of waste in the fashion system
Nourishing or polluting : redefining the role of waste in the fashion system
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滋养还是污染：重新定义废物在时尚系统中的作用
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发表时间：
2012
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影响因子：
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通讯作者：
A. Payne
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文献类型：
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作者：
A. Payne
浪费是时装系统的固有特征。时尚是建立在固有的过时的基础上的，因此过时的服装很快就被丢弃到慈善商店或垃圾填埋场。然而，时尚的故事也是一个丰富和奢侈的设计理念。每个季节都有新的设计细节-印花，刺绣，装饰，形状和纹理。这种过多的想法本身就是另一种形式的浪费，尽管这种浪费在文化上是有营养的。时装的坟墓也可能是一个季节的研究和创造力的坟墓。本文比较了服装业的有形浪费和无形浪费，即服装创意和文化过剩。时尚的过度和丰富的趋势和想法使得任何遏制环境影响的举措都很困难。对于所有时尚从业者--无论是设计师还是消费者--来说，时尚体系中固有的浪费和过度是一个难以谈判的道德领域。然而，逆转生产周期中的浪费阶段可以帮助将废物从污染转化为未来实践的营养来源。虽然设计师的创造性过度可能会在一个季节后被“浪费”，但时尚风格和比喻会被回收和重新发明，前几年一度过时的风格和设计理念会重新被重新评价并重新融入时尚体系。
同样，材料服装通过进入或重新进入二手或古董市场获得新的价值。设计过程可以利用消费前或消费后的纺织品废物，或通过设计消除废物。在这些过程中，废物成为未来时尚周期的主要营养来源。
Waste is intrinsic to the fashion system. Fashion is predicated on built-in obsolescence, and as such outmoded garments are rapidly discarded to charity shops or landfill. However, the story of fashion is also one of abundance and extravagance in design ideas. Every season there are new design details – prints, embroidery, embellishments, shapes and textures. This excess of ideas is in itself another form of waste, albeit one that is culturally nourishing. The grave of a fashion garment may also be the grave of a season’s research and creativity. This paper compares the tangible waste of the industry with its intangible waste, namely fashion’s creativity and cultural excess. Fashion’s excess and abundance of trends and ideas makes any move to curb the environmental impact difficult. For all practitioners of fashion – whether designers or consumers – the waste and excess inherent in the fashion system is a difficult ethical terrain to negotiate. However, inverting the wasteful phases of the production cycle can help reframe waste from pollution to a source of nourishment for future practice. While creative excesses of designers may be ‘wasted’ after a season, fashion styles and tropes are recycled and reinvented, with the once passe styles and design ideas from previous years revalorized and returned into the fashion system.
Similarly, material garments acquire new value through entering or re-entering the second hand or vintage markets. Design processes can utilise pre or post-consumer textile waste, or eliminate waste through design. In these processes, waste becomes the primary source of nourishment for future fashion cycles.