Influence of the Structural Parameters of Woven Fabrics on their Drapeability

Influence of the Structural Parameters of Woven Fabrics on their Drapeability
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机织物结构参数对其悬垂性的影响

DOI:
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发表时间:
2017
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影响因子:
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通讯作者:
M. Matusiak
M. Matusiak
中科院分区:
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文献类型:
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作者:
M. Matusiak

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悬垂性是织物的一项非常重要的实用参数,特别是在服装中的应用。它影响服装的审美效果,特别是它对使用者身体的合适性。织物悬垂是重力和各种织物特性相互作用的结果。在介绍的工作中,测试了不同结构的棉机织物的悬垂性范围。这些织物的组织范围和纬纱的线密度各不相同。通过织物悬垂测试仪对织物进行了测量。分析了织物悬垂性与纬纱种类、组织、纬密、硬挺度等参数之间的关系。结果证实,对于所研究的织物组,其硬挺度是影响织物悬垂性的最显著的特性。另外,不同的组织会产生不同的悬垂系数和形状系数。
Drape is a very important utility parameter of fabrics, especially applied in clothing. It influences the aesthetic effect of clothing, in particular its fitting to the user’s body. Fabric draping is the result of interaction between gravitation and various fabric characteristics. In the work presented, cotton woven fabrics of different structure were measured in the range of their drapeability. The fabrics differed from each other in the range of their weave and linear density of weft yarn. Measurement of the fabrics was made by means of a fabric drape tester. Results of the measurement were analysed in the aspect of the relationships between the drape of the fabrics and their parameters, such as the kind of weft yarn, weave, weft density and stiffness. Results confirmed that for the group of fabrics investigated, their stiffness is the most significant property influencing the drapeability of fabrics. Additionally different weaves result in different values of the drape coefficient and shape factor.