Inside Subculture: The Postmodern Meaning of Style

Inside Subculture: The Postmodern Meaning of Style
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亚文化内部:风格的后现代意义

DOI:
10.5860/choice.38-3037
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发表时间:
2000
期刊:
The Journal of American History
影响因子:
--
通讯作者:
David Muggleton
David Muggleton
中科院分区:
--
文献类型:
--
作者:
David Muggleton

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是什么促使人们以一种与众不同的方式穿着?在我们混搭的后现代文化中,服装真的可以“随心所欲”吗?容易识别的、真实的亚文化是否在大量的讽刺复兴和文体碎片中内爆?这所谓的“后亚文化”一代是否积极庆祝短暂、短暂和一次性,只是在不断加速的时尚狂热中抛弃和尝试一个又一个替代身份?这本令人兴奋的书是对这些问题的社会学研究。通过倾听亚文化造型师自己的声音-他们对自己风格的主观看法和背后的想法-作者提供了对主观性和身份问题的原创见解。作者在后现代主义和文化变革的更广泛的考虑中定位了一个经验性的案例研究,拒绝了试图将亚文化作为文本来“阅读”的文化研究视角。通过对那些穿着可能被认为是非传统风格的人的广泛采访,他试图确定当代亚文化是否表现出现代或后现代的情感和形式。他令人信服地认为,他们两者兼而有之--强调后现代的超个人主义、流动性和碎片化,同时强调现代主义对真实性和潜在本质的强调。他的结论是,浪漫主义的自由意志主义已经渗透到工人阶级文化中,“个人主义”的中产阶级反文化和“集体主义”的工人阶级亚文化之间的区别被过分强调了。
What motivates people to dress in a manner that marks them out as different to the conventional norm? Is it true that, with dress, 'anything goes' in our mix-and-match postmodern culture? Have easily recognizable, authentic subcultures imploded in a glut of ironic revivals and stylistic fragmentation? Does this supposed 'post-subcultural' generation actively celebrate ephemerality, transience and disposability, merely casting off and trying on one alternative identity after another in an ever-accelerating fashion frenzy? This exciting book is a considered sociological examination of such questions. By listening to the voices of the subcultural stylists themselves - their subjective perceptions of their style and the ideas that lie behind them - the author provides original insights into issues of subjectivity and identity. Situating an empirical case study within a wider consideration of postmodernism and cultural change, the author rejects cultural studies perspectives that attempt to 'read' subcultures as texts. Drawing on extensive interviews with people who dress in what might be deemed a stylistically unconventional manner, he seeks instead to establish whether contemporary subcultures display modern or postmodern sensibilities and forms. He argues persuasively that they do both - a stress on postmodern hyperindividualism, fluidity and fragmentation runs alongside a modernist emphasis on authenticity and underlying essence. He concludes that a Romantic libertarianism has permeated working-class culture and that the distinction between 'individualistic' middle-class countercultures and 'collectivist' working-class subcultures has been over-emphasized.