Influence of offshore fringing reefs on infragravity period oscillations within a harbor
Influence of offshore fringing reefs on infragravity period oscillations within a harbor
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近海岸礁对港口内次重力周期振荡的影响
DOI：
10.1016/j.oceaneng.2018.04.006
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发表时间：
2018-06
影响因子：
5
通讯作者：
Li Zhou
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
Junliang Gao;Xiaojun Zhou;Jun Zang;Qiang Chen;Li Zhou
本文的主要目的是系统地研究近海岸礁地形对近海岸礁发生波浪破碎条件下的超重力港湾振荡的影响。采用完全非线性的Boussinesq模型模拟了双色波群作用下加长港口内的次重力(IG)周期振荡。基于波浪分析技术，综合研究了平面礁面坡度、礁面形状和礁脊对港内IG周期最大分量幅值、约束IG波和自由IG波及其相关分量的影响。结果表明，在礁体发生波浪破碎的情况下，上述4个变量均随着礁面坡度的增大而逐渐增大，并且随着礁面平均水深的增大而呈先增大后减小再增大的趋势。对于平均水深较大(等于或大于3.0 m)的礁面形状，礁脊的存在总是显著地增强港内的束缚IG波，而其对最大IG周期分量幅度和自由IG波的影响都取决于入射主波的幅度。
The main objective of this paper is to systematically study the influence of offshore fringing reef topography on the infragravity-period harbor oscillations under the condition of wave breaking occurring over the reef. The infragravity (IG) period oscillations inside an elongated harbor excited by bichromatic wave groups are simulated using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model. Based on a wave analysis technique, influences of plane reef-face slope, reef-face profile shape and reef ridge on the maximum IG period component amplitude, the bound and the free IG waves and their relative components inside the harbor are comprehensively investigated. Results show that under the condition of wave breaking occurring over the reef, all the four above-mentioned variables increase gradually with the reef-face slope, and tend to increase first, then decrease, and then increase again with the mean water depth over the reef face. For the reef-face profile shapes with relatively large mean water depth (equal to or larger than 3.0 m), the existence of the reef ridge always significantly enhances the bound IG waves inside the harbor, while its influences on the maximum IG period component amplitude and the free IG waves both depend on the incident primary wave amplitudes.
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