A method for determining the behavior of long waves climbing a sloping beach
A method for determining the behavior of long waves climbing a sloping beach
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确定长波爬坡海滩行为的方法
DOI：
10.1029/jz071i002p00401
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发表时间：
1966
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
M. Amein
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
M. Amein
长周期波的传播对于远离海岸的区域由一阶线性小振幅表面波理论确定，对于靠近海岸的区域由一阶非线性浅水理论确定。线性理论计算采用Friedrichs第二渐近表示法，适用于小海滩坡度。非线性理论计算采用基于特征法的有限差分技术在数字计算机上进行。在数值方法中，将孔方程与非线性理论方程相耦合，给出了干坡海滩波浪爬升的计算程序。这项研究的主要目标是开发将非线性理论应用于周期性长波的计算机程序。针对波浪周期和海滩坡度的几种组合，呈现了作为距海岸距离的函数的瞬时无量纲波浪剖面。
The propagation of long-period waves is determined by the first-order linear small-amplitude surface wave theory for regions away from the shore and by the first-order nonlinear shallow-water theory for regions near the shore. Calculations by the linear theory were made by using Friedrichs' second asymptotic representation, which is suitable for small beach slopes. Calculations by the nonlinear theory were made on a digital computer by a finite difference technique based on the method of characteristics. In the numerical method, the bore equations are coupled to the equations of the nonlinear theory, and a procedure for the calculation of the wave runup on the dry sloping beach is given. A primary objective of this study was the development of computer programs for the application of the nonlinear theory to periodic long waves. Instantaneous dimensionless wave profiles as functions of the distance from the shore are presented for several combinations of wave periods and beach slopes.