Change in surface chemistry of the cuticle of human hair by chemical and photochemical oxidation
Change in surface chemistry of the cuticle of human hair by chemical and photochemical oxidation
复制标题
化学和光化学氧化导致人发角质层表面化学变化
DOI：
10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00259_3.x
复制
发表时间：
2005
影响因子：
2.3
通讯作者：
Y. Kamath
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
S. Ruetsch;Y. Kamath
这是一个多方面的研究表征和量化的损害所造成的光化学和化妆品化学氧化过程的头发纤维表面。使用独特的技术，包括显微荧光法，该方法适用于表征和量化人类头发表面在光照和化妆品化学修饰过程中的脱脂和酸化，如漂白。在光化学和化学氧化过程中，外b层的脂质结构域（也称为F层）的分解发生在暴露的鳞片表面上，并且在角质层细胞表面上产生半胱氨酸基团。新形成的酸官能团可以用阳离子荧光染料罗丹明B标记，不仅允许量化渐进酸化的水平，而且允许定位新形成的酸官能团。另一方面，通过氧化在毛发表面上产生的负电荷也可结合低分子量季阳离子调理化合物，例如十六烷基三甲基溴化铵。该过程可以被认为是通过吸附的再脂质化。我们已经表明，脱脂/酸的形成和随后的relipidation通过吸附的规模面的整个过程可以通过X-射线光电子能谱定量。由于X射线光电子能谱分析是高度敏感的，并且能够检测在头发纤维的最表面处的原子种类，从浅至25 A的逃逸深度接收信号，因此它对于表征头发表面中的处理诱导的变化似乎是理想的。然而，X射线光电子能谱法提供了包括鳞片面和鳞片边缘的毛发表面的平均元素组成。另一方面，显微荧光技术可以区分鳞片表面的逐渐脱脂和鳞片破损边缘处发生的变化。通过对毛发表面的慢速显微荧光扫描详细显示和表征了这种区别。毛发表面的化学和光化学氧化过程导致某些附带影响。特别是表面润湿性和纤维摩擦的变化对化妆品化学家来说是重要的，因为它们影响产品在头发中的铺展和芯吸以及头发组件的可管理性和主体。描述这些影响的方法进行了简要讨论。
This is a multifaceted study on the characterization and quantification of damage to the hair fiber surface caused by photochemical and cosmetic chemical oxidative processes. Unique techniques were used, including a microfluorometric method that had been adapted to characterize and quantify the delipidation and acidification of the human hair surface during light exposure and cosmetic chemical grooming processes such as bleaching. During photochemical and chemical oxidation, breakdown of the lipid domains (also called the F-layer) of the outer b-layer occurs on the exposed scale faces and cysteic acid groups are generated on the cuticle cell surface. The newly formed acid functionalities can be tagged with the cationic fluorochrome Rhodamine B, allowing not only quantification of the level of progressive acidification but also localization of the newly formed acid functionalities. On the other hand, the negative charges generated on the hair surface by oxidation can also bind low molecular weight quaternary cationic conditioning compounds such as cetyltrimethylammonium bromide. This process can be considered a relipidation by adsorption. We have shown that the entire process of delipidation/acid formation and subsequent relipidation by adsorption on the scale faces can be quantified by X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy. Since X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy analysis is highly sensitive and able to detect atomic species at the very surface of the hair fibers, receiving signals from an escape depth as shallow as 25 A, it appeared ideal for the characterization of treatment-induced changes in the hair surface. However, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy provides an average elemental composition of the hair surface including scale faces and scale edges. The microfluorometric technique, on the other hand, can distinguish progressive delipidation of the scale faces from changes occurring at the broken scale edges. This distinction was shown and characterized in detail by slow speed microfluorometric scanning of the hair surface. Chemical and photochemical oxidative processes at the hair surface result in certain collateral effects. Particularly changes in surface wettability and fiber friction are of significance to the cosmetic chemist because they affect the spreading and wicking of products in hair as well as the managability and the body of hair assemblies. Methods of characterizing these effects are discussed briefly.