Groups of waves in shallow water
Groups of waves in shallow water
复制标题
浅水中的波浪群
DOI：
10.1029/jc089ic03p03623
复制
发表时间：
1984
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
R. Seymour
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
S. Elgar;R. Guza;R. Seymour
将线性理论预测的波群统计与数值模拟进行比较，从而确定理论适用的频谱形状范围。研究发现，这些理论对于海洋数据并不普遍适用，这是因为除了线性和随机相位之外的许多假设和简化，或者因为它们的适用范围不包括绝大多数海洋条件。这些模拟还提供了有关线性波群统计的可变性的定量信息，这在检查海洋场数据时很有用。模拟结果表明，重要的海洋重力波群统计与由线性叠加的随机波组成的下垫面波场并不矛盾。所研究的大多数野外数据是在10米深收集的；有效波高从20到200厘米不等，光谱形状从相当窄到很宽(1<；qp<；6)。对于10m深度的数据，观测到的给定数量的波的平均游程、游程的方差和游程的概率与模拟在统计上是一致的。与在10m深度观察到的明显的线性群相反，2-3m深度的波与线性模拟结果有明显的偏离。
Wave group statistics predicted by linear theories are compared to numerical simulations, thus determining ranges of spectral shapes for which the theories are valid. It is found that these theories are not generally valid for ocean data because of many assumptions and simplifications beyond linearity and random phase or because their range of applicability does not include the vast majority of ocean conditions. The simulations also provide quantitative information about the variability of linear wave group statistics which is useful when examining ocean field data. The simulation technique is used to show that important ocean gravity wave group statistics are not inconsistent with an underlying wave field composed of linearly superposed random waves. The majority of the field data examined were collected in 10 m depth; significant wave heights varied from about 20 to 200 cm, and the spectral shapes ranged from fairly narrow to broad (1<Qp<6). For the 10–m depth data, the observed mean run length, variance of run length, and probabilities of runs of a given number of waves were statistically consistent with the simulations. In contrast to the apparently linear groups observed in 10 m depth, waves in 2–3 m depth showed marked departures from the linear simulations.