Long-wave response to laterally periodic reef-lagoon bathymetry
Long-wave response to laterally periodic reef-lagoon bathymetry
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对横向周期性礁湖测深的长波响应
DOI：
10.1016/j.coastaleng.2022.104218
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发表时间：
2022
影响因子：
4.4
通讯作者：
Yeh, Harry
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
Bheeroo, Vivek A.;Yeh, Harry
通过一系列数值试验，研究了近岸礁湖水深测量中的长波响应。我们考虑这个问题，使得泻湖的长度尺度可以与礁石相媲美。一系列近海生物礁在近岸方向上周期性地形成，与岸线平行；相邻的生物礁之间用孔道隔开。我们对入射的长波列车施加了椭圆波，其长度尺度与礁石和泻湖的尺度相当。我们的结果表明，入射波在礁石后面的区域被放大，在直接暴露在孔洞的区域被衰减，由此导致的沿海岸的波放大的变化被发现是显著的。这种有点违反直觉的结果是由于长波的绕射和折射与长度相当的珊瑚礁-泻湖水深测量相互作用造成的。我们还发现，近海波场的模式可能不能识别礁体的水深特征，这是因为近海波浪的形成模式受到礁-泻湖系统的波浪反射的复杂组合的影响。文中还对感应剩余电流进行了分析。结果表明，只有当礁体高度相对于周围水深较高，且孔口宽度与礁体近岸宽度相比较窄时，孔道中才会形成显著的离岸向余流。反之，则形成岸上方向的残余流，尽管幅度很小。结果表明，余流是由平均水面的梯度和水平动量通量的时间平均共同引起的。
Longwave response in a reef-lagoon bathymetry adjacent to a shore is studied by performing a series of numerical experiments. We consider the problem such that the length scale of the lagoon is comparable to the reef. A series of offshore reefs is formed periodically in the alongshore direction, parallel to the shoreline; adjacent reefs are separated with aperture channels. We impose cnoidal waves for the incident longwave train with the length scale comparable to the reef and lagoon dimensions. Our results reveal that the incident waves amplify in the region behind the reef, and attenuate in the region directly exposed to the aperture; the resulting variation of wave amplification along the shore is found to be substantial. This somewhat counterintuitive outcome is caused by a combination of diffraction and refraction of the long waves interacting with the reef-lagoon bathymetry of comparable length scale. We also found that the pattern of the offshore wavefield may not identify the reef bathymetry characteristics; it is because the pattern of offshore wave formation is influenced by a complex combination of wave reflection from the reef-lagoon system. The induced residual currents are also examined. The results show that notable offshore-directed residual currents are formed in the aperture channel only when the reef height is high with respect to the ambient water depth and when the aperture width is narrow compared with the reef's alongshore breadth. Otherwise, the residual currents in the onshore direction are formed, although the magnitude is very small. It is demonstrated that the residual currents are induced by a combination of the gradients of the mean water surface and the time average of horizontal momentum flux.
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