Controlling or trusting children’s taste: making sense of taste education
Controlling or trusting children’s taste: making sense of taste education
复制标题
控制或信任孩子的品味：理解品味教育
DOI：
--
复制
发表时间：
2016
期刊：
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
J. Leer
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
K. Wistoft;J. Leer
在对当代饮食文化及其诸多风险的批评中，儿童常常被视为一个特别脆弱的群体，需要指导以避免肥胖和其他流行病。对后代大量食物文盲以及随后与食物有关的健康问题的担忧常常被用来使极其规范的儿童食物教育和控制机制（如助推、羞辱和自我监管）合法化。在本文中，我们想重点关注味觉在当代食品教育中的运用。我们将通过批判性地讨论一系列设计和评估儿童品味教育项目的学术研究来做到这一点。我们的主要论点是，大多数关于品味教育的文献对品味的理解非常简单，并且基本上完全不信任儿童的品味。味觉被视为“正确”饮食习惯的障碍，而不是一种重要的感觉、快乐的源泉，或者是从感官上理解和接近世界的中心方式。换句话说，味觉素养成为推动孩子走向“营养霸权”的工具。从理论上讲，本文的灵感来自于最近食品研究和学习研究中对福柯治理术概念的重新诠释。通过这个理论框架，我们对现有文献进行批判，旨在提出另类品味教育学。这种教学法基于信任而不是控制。背景 近几十年来，法国的一项特殊举措备受国际关注，并对味觉、儿童和学习的教学和研究产生了巨大影响：Les Classes du Goût，由法国化学家、味觉哲学家和酿酒学家 Jacques Puisais 发起，他于 1974 年开始在法国中部城市图尔及其周边地区教授味觉课程。在接下来的十年里，他为儿童开发了味觉课程。该项目在全国范围内推广，持续一个学年，由不同主题的十节课组成。这项工作于 1998 年突然终止，当时负责品味课程的国家机构国家烹饪艺术委员会因迫在眉睫的财务丑闻而关闭。在过去的一段时间里，至少有 100,000 名儿童参加了 Puisais 的品味课程（Mac Loed & Politzer，1）。第二年，新成立的 L’institut du Goût 再次接手了他的工作，该机构试图继续并进一步发展 Puisais 品味课程背后的原则。自 20 世纪 90 年代以来，许多其他国家
In critiques of contemporary food culture and its many risks, children are very often framed as a particularly vulnerable group in need of guidance in order to avoid obesity and other epidemics. The fears of a massive food illiteracy of the coming generations and the subsequent food related health problems is often used to legitimate extremely normative food education for children and control mechanism such as nudging, shaming and self-policing. In this paper, we want to focus on how taste is used in contemporary food education. We will do this by critically discussing a series of academic studies that design and evaluate taste education programs for children. Our main argument is that most of the literature on taste education has a very reductive understanding of taste and is essentially totally distrustful concerning children’s taste. Taste is seen as a barrier for ‘correct’ eating habits and not as an important sense, a source to pleasure, or a central way of sensually understanding and approaching the world. In other words, taste literacy becomes a tool to push children towards ‘hegemonic nutrition’. Theoretically, the paper is inspired by the reworking of Foucault’s governmentality concept in recent food studies and learning studies. Through this theoretical framework we develop our critique of the existing literature in the aim of proposing alternative taste pedagogy. This pedagogy is based on trust rather than controlling. Background Over recent decades, one particular French initiative has received much international attention and had great influence on teaching and research on taste, children and learning: Les Classes du Goût, which was launched by the French chemist, philosopher of taste and oenologist Jacques Puisais who began teaching taste courses in 1974 in and around the central French city of Tours. Over the following decade, he developed taste lessons for children; introduced nationally, the project was spread over a school year and consisted of ten lessons with different themes. This work was suddenly terminated in 1998 when the national organ with responsibility for the taste classes, Conseil National des Arts Culinaires, was closed down in part due to a looming financial scandal. Over the course of the preceding period, no less than 100,000 children had attended Puisais’s taste lessons (Mac Loed & Politzer, 1). The following year, his work was taken up again by the newly founded L’institut du Goût, which has attempted to continue and further develop the principles behind Puisais’s taste classes. Since the 1990s, a number of other countries have