Observations and predictions of fluid velocities in the surf and swash zones
Observations and predictions of fluid velocities in the surf and swash zones
复制标题
海浪和冲刷区流体速度的观测和预测
DOI：
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发表时间：
2002
期刊：
影响因子：
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通讯作者：
B. Raubenheimer
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
B. Raubenheimer
[1]在低坡度、细粒桑迪海滩上，在7个跨岸位置连续139个51分钟观察到的冲浪区和沼泽区水位波动和跨岸流体速度，可以很好地用深度平均、非线性浅水方程模拟。该模型，从海岸线约150米，水深300厘米的观测初始化，准确地预测所观察到的减少，在海浪波高和轨道速度随着水深减少整个冲浪区和观察到的最大亚重力轨道速度和离岸指向的平均流量附近的冲带的外缘。在碎波区的观测和预测的速度波动主要由锯齿形，俯仰向前（不对称）的海涌波。在冲流区，亚重力波对总速度方差和不对称性有很大贡献。外冲带向岸，观测到的和预测的总速度和亚重力速度不对称性在岸上减小，在上冲带从正变负。
[1] Surfzone and swashzone water level fluctuations and cross-shore fluid velocities observed at seven cross-shore locations for 139 51-min periods on a low-sloped, fine-grained sandy beach are shown to be modeled well by the depth-averaged, nonlinear shallow water equations. The model, initialized with observations about 150 m from the shoreline in 300 cm water depth, accurately predicts the observed decrease in sea swell wave heights and orbital velocities with decreasing water depth across the surf zone and the observed maxima in infragravity orbital velocities and offshore-directed mean flows near the outer edge of the swash zone. In the surf zone both the observed and predicted velocity fluctuations are dominated by sawtoothed-shaped, pitched forward (asymmetrical) sea swell waves. In the swash zone, infragravity waves contribute substantially to the total velocity variance and asymmetry. Shoreward of the outer swash zone, observed and predicted total and infragravity velocity asymmetry decrease onshore, changing sign from positive to negative in the upper swash.