EVOLUTION OF MAXIMUM AMPLITUDE OF SOLITARY WAVES ON PLANE BEACHES
EVOLUTION OF MAXIMUM AMPLITUDE OF SOLITARY WAVES ON PLANE BEACHES
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平面海滩上孤立波最大振幅的演化
DOI：
10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1993)119:3(323
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发表时间：
1993
期刊：
影响因子：
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通讯作者：
J. Skjelbreia
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
C. Synolakis;J. Skjelbreia
本文研究了平面海滩上孤立波的变换。提出了一系列的室内实验来描述长波的振幅演化；这些实验表明，最大振幅的功能变化至少存在四个不同的区域，两个区域在断裂之前，两个区域在断裂之后。线性理论用于描述首先在恒定深度上发展，然后在倾斜底部上发展的孤立波的增长，包括反射。结果表明，这一结果等价于波的演化表达式称为格林定律，并讨论了格林的原始推导的局限性。其他现有的分析结果和某些经验关系被用来产生与实验室数据一致的公式，目的是模拟孤立波演化的整个过程。
This paper presents a study of the transformation of solitary waves on plane beaches. A series of laboratory experiments is presented to describe the amplitude evolution of long waves; these experiments suggest that at least four different regions exist for the functional variation of the maximum amplitude, two regions before and two regions after breaking. Linear theory is used to provide an expression for the growth of solitary waves evolving first over constant depth and then over a sloping bottom, including reflection. This result is shown to be equivalent to the wave evolution expression known as Green's law, and the limitations of Green's original derivation are discussed. Other existing analytical results and certain empirical relationships are used to produce a formulation consistent with the laboratory data with the objective to model the entire process of solitary wave evolution.