Focusing deep-water surface gravity wave packets: wave breaking criterion in a simplified model

Focusing deep-water surface gravity wave packets: wave breaking criterion in a simplified model
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聚焦深水表面重力波包:简化模型中的破波准则

DOI:
10.1017/jfm.2019.428
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发表时间:
2019
影响因子:
3.7
通讯作者:
Kendall Melville, W.
Kendall Melville, W.
中科院分区:
工程技术2区
文献类型:
--
作者:
Pizzo, Nick;Kendall Melville, W.

文献摘要

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在一个简化的模型中,研究了聚焦深水表面重力波包的几何、运动学和动力学特性,并导出了波浪破碎阈值参数。该模型是基于空间修正的非线性薛定谔方程的Dysthe(Proc. R。Lond. A,第369(1736)卷,1979,第105-114页)。最初窄带和弱非线性啁啾高斯波包的演变检查,通过一个试验函数和变分过程,产生的解析解描述的包的宽度,振幅,不对称性和相位的近似演化过程中聚焦。作为相空间函数的最大自由表面梯度模型,在非破碎波和破碎波之间,作为破碎标准。讨论了该结果在更好地理解海气相互作用过程中的应用。
Geometric, kinematic and dynamic properties of focusing deep-water surface gravity wave packets are examined in a simplified model with the intent of deriving a wave breaking threshold parameter. The model is based on the spatial modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation of Dysthe (Proc. R. Soc. Lond. A, vol. 369 (1736), 1979, pp. 105–114). The evolution of initially narrow-banded and weakly nonlinear chirped Gaussian wave packets are examined, by means of a trial function and a variational procedure, yielding analytic solutions describing the approximate evolution of the packet width, amplitude, asymmetry and phase during focusing. A model for the maximum free surface gradient, as a function of phase space, between non-breaking and breaking waves, serving as a breaking criterion. Application of this result to better understanding air–sea interaction processes is discussed.