Focusing deep-water surface gravity wave packets: wave breaking criterion in a simplified model
Focusing deep-water surface gravity wave packets: wave breaking criterion in a simplified model
复制标题
聚焦深水表面重力波包:简化模型中的破波准则
DOI:
10.1017/jfm.2019.428
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发表时间:
2019
影响因子:
3.7
通讯作者:
Kendall Melville, W.
中科院分区:
文献类型:
--
作者:
Pizzo, Nick;Kendall Melville, W.
Geometric, kinematic and dynamic properties of focusing deep-water surface gravity wave packets are examined in a simplified model with the intent of deriving a wave breaking threshold parameter. The model is based on the spatial modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation of Dysthe (Proc. R. Soc. Lond. A, vol. 369 (1736), 1979, pp. 105–114). The evolution of initially narrow-banded and weakly nonlinear chirped Gaussian wave packets are examined, by means of a trial function and a variational procedure, yielding analytic solutions describing the approximate evolution of the packet width, amplitude, asymmetry and phase during focusing. A model for the maximum free surface gradient, as a function of phase space, between non-breaking and breaking waves, serving as a breaking criterion. Application of this result to better understanding air–sea interaction processes is discussed.