Wave-height distributions and nonlinear effects

Wave-height distributions and nonlinear effects
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DOI:
10.1016/j.oceaneng.2006.11.006
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发表时间:
2007-08
期刊:
影响因子:
5
通讯作者:
M. Tayfun;F. Fedele
M. Tayfun;F. Fedele
中科院分区:
工程技术2区
文献类型:
--
作者:
M. Tayfun;F. Fedele

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简要回顾了线性波浪波峰波谷高度的理论分布。为了探索非线性的影响,这些被推广到二阶波,利用拟确定性结果的预期形状的大波。Gram-Charlier模型在描述三阶非线性对波高、波峰和波谷分布的影响方面的功效被详细地检查。所有的模型和最近提出的五阶斯托克斯-瑞利型模型进行了比较,模拟的线性和非线性波的JONSWAP频谱代表长峰极端的海洋,也与海洋数据收集在北海。来自有限大小的样本群体的概率估计的变异性所产生的unconstitutional被认为是。最后,比较表明,非线性不具有任何明显的影响波峰到波谷的高度的海洋波。大多数考虑的线性模型产生类似的和合理的预测所观察到的数据趋势。Gram-Charlier型分布在描述海洋条件下大波高或波峰的统计数据时似乎既不有效也不是特别有用。然而,它们在预测一些二维波浪水槽实验和长峰窄带随机波的三维数值模拟中观察到的异常大的波高和波峰方面做得令人惊讶。
Theoretical distributions proposed for describing the crest-to-trough heights of linear waves are reviewed briefly. To explore the effects of nonlinearities, these are generalized to second-order waves, utilizing quasi-deterministic results on the expected shape of large waves. The efficacy of Gram–Charlier models in describing the effects of third-order nonlinearities on the distributions of wave heights, crests and troughs are examined in detail. All models and a fifth-order Stokes–Rayleigh type model recently proposed are compared with linear and nonlinear waves simulated from the JONSWAP spectrum representative of long-crested extreme seas, and also with oceanic data gathered in the North Sea. Uncertainties arising from the variability of probability estimates derived from sample populations of limited size are considered. Ultimately, the comparisons show that nonlinearities do not have any discernable effect on the crest-to-trough heights of oceanic waves. Most of the linear models considered yield similar and reasonable predictions of the observed data trends. Gram–Charlier type distributions seem neither effective nor particularly useful in describing the statistics of large wave heights or crests under oceanic conditions. However, they do surprisingly well in predicting unusually large wave heights and crests observed in some 2D wave-flume experiments and 3D numerical simulations of long-crested narrow-band random waves.