Haute Cuisine: How the French Invented the Culinary Profession
Haute Cuisine: How the French Invented the Culinary Profession
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高级烹饪：法国人如何发明烹饪行业
DOI：
10.5860/choice.38-2144
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发表时间：
2000
期刊：
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
A. Trubek
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
A. Trubek
1903 年《欧洲美食指南》的英国作者评论道：“巴黎是世界烹饪中心。所有优秀烹饪的伟大传教士都从这里走出，巴黎的美食过去、现在、将来都将是世界上最伟大艺术之一的最高体现。”即使在今天，一顿精心准备、优雅上菜的精致餐点几乎必然是法式菜肴。一个半世纪以来，全世界的美食都意味着法式菜肴，尤其是法式菜肴。厨师。尽管在过去的十年里，美国地方菜和国际美食越来越受欢迎，但从新奥尔良到伦敦再到东京的餐厅菜单上都出现了“切丝”、“炒”和“厨师”等法语术语，烹饪学校仍然认为法式烹饪方法对于每一代厨师来说都是必不可少的。艾米·特鲁贝克 (Amy Trubek) 在蓝带接受过专业厨师培训，探索了法国传统如何主宰烹饪世界的迷人故事。兰斯洛特·德·卡斯托 (Lancelot de Casteau) 撰写并于 1604 年出版的《烹饪序曲》是厨师最早的参考书之一，规定了为贵族准备和呈现食物的规则。从这本指南和随后的烹饪书开始，十七世纪和十八世纪的法国厨师编纂了法国贵族的美食。法国大革命后，法国厨师发现有必要从贵族之家转向公共领域，在那里他们能够建立烹饪美学的基础，使烹饪不仅成为受人尊敬的职业，而且使其成为法国的职业。法国厨师从家庭仆人转变为美食艺术大师，使法国贵族的美食成为国际高级美食。工业时代的新精英和资产阶级渴望证明自己的“好品味”，竞相聘请法国厨师到家中，并在法国厨师主持厨房的餐厅招待客人。 《高级烹饪》介绍了 19 世纪的伟大厨师，包括安东尼·卡雷姆 (Antonin Careme) 和奥古斯特·埃科菲 (Auguste Escoffier)，以及他们在创建受过法国原则和技术培训的专业厨师阶层中所扮演的角色，以及他们的当代继承人，尤其是皮埃尔·弗兰尼 (Pierre Franey) 和朱莉娅·柴尔德 (Julia Child)。法国对烹饪和文化世界的影响是一个关于食物作为身份象征的故事。“告诉我你吃什么，”伟大的美食家布里亚-萨瓦林写道，“我会告诉你你是谁。”高级烹饪向我们展示了我们的口味、欲望和历史如何在共同的餐桌上融合在一起，欣赏法国的美食帝国。祝你胃口好！
"Paris is the culinary centre of the world. All the great missionaries of good cookery have gone forth from it, and its cuisine was, is, and ever will be the supreme expression of one of the greatest arts of the world," observed the English author of The Gourmet Guide to Europe in 1903. Even today, a sophisticated meal, expertly prepared and elegantly served, must almost by definition be French.For a century and a half, fine dining the world over has meant French dishes and, above all, French chefs. Despite the growing popularity in the past decade of regional American and international cuisines, French terms like julienne, saute, and chef de cuisine appear on restaurant menus from New Orleans to London to Tokyo, and culinary schools still consider the French methods essential for each new generation of chefs. Amy Trubek, trained as a professional chef at the Cordon Bleu, explores the fascinating story of how the traditions of France came to dominate the culinary world.One of the first reference works for chefs, Ouverture de Cuisine, written by Lancelot de Casteau and published in 1604, set out rules for the preparation and presentation of food for the nobility.Beginning with this guide and the cookbooks that followed, French chefs of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries codified the cuisine of the French aristocracy. After the French Revolution, the chefs of France found it necessary to move from the homes of the nobility to the public sphere, where they were able to build on this foundation of an aesthetic of cooking to make cuisine not only a respected profession but also to make it a French profession. French cooks transformed themselves from household servants to masters of the art of fine dining, making the cuisine of the French aristocracy the international haute cuisine.Eager to prove their "good taste," the new elites of the Industrial Age and the bourgeoisie competed to hire French chefs in their homes, and to entertain at restaurants where French chefs presided over the kitchen. Haute Cuisine profiles the great chefs of the nineteenth century, including Antonin Careme and Auguste Escoffier, and their role in creating a professional class of chefs trained in French principles and techniques, as well as their contemporary heirs, notably Pierre Franey and Julia Child.The French influence on the world of cuisine and culture is a story of food as status symbol."Tell me what you eat," the great gastronome Brillat-Savarin wrote, "and I will tell you who you are." Haute Cuisine shows us how our tastes, desires, and history come together at a common table of appreciation for the French empire of food. Bon appetit!