A note on the amount of wave energy transmitted over nearshore sand bars
A note on the amount of wave energy transmitted over nearshore sand bars
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关于近岸沙洲传输的波浪能量的注释
DOI：
10.1002/esp.3290080304
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发表时间：
1983
期刊：
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
J. H. Balsillie
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
R. Carter;J. H. Balsillie
波浪在近岸沙坝上破碎时的波能损失是一种重要的地貌过程，它控制着邻近海滩和沙丘的稳定性。这种影响在风暴期间特别重要，因为它可以防止严重的海岸线侵蚀。
现场测量从佛罗里达和爱尔兰的波穿越单一和多个酒吧bedform，表明酒吧断裂发生，78%和99%之间的波能量可能会从个人波耗散。然而，如果在改造过程中波浪频率增加，另外20%的能量可能到达海岸。后一种效应在溢出模式破坏者占主导地位的多个酒吧现场没有注意到。能量耗散水平与穿过临界深度以下的淹没杆截面所需的时间有关，d < 1.28H。在现场，这可以通过波速与钢筋破碎带宽度的比率来近似。
The wave energy loss as waves break on nearshore bars is an important geomorphological process as it controls the stability of the adjacent beaches and dunes. The effect is particularly important during storms as it serves to guard against severe shoreline erosion.
Field measurements from Florida and Ireland of waves crossing both single and multiple bar bedforms, indicate that where bar-breaking occurs, between 78 and 99 per cent of wave energy may be dissipated from individual waves. However, a further 20 per cent energy may reach the shore if wave frequencies increase during the reformation process. This latter effect was not noted at the multiple bar site where spilling mode breakers dominate. The level of energy dissipation is related to the time taken to cross that section of the submerged bar below the critical depth, d < 1.28H. In the field this may be approximated by the ratio of wave speed to the width of the bar breaker zone.