Articles of Interest , hosted by A very T rufelman , https://99percentinvisible.org/aoi/ Handcut Radio , hosted by A leks C vetkovic , https://www.handcutradio.com
Articles of Interest , hosted by A very T rufelman , https://99percentinvisible.org/aoi/ Handcut Radio , hosted by A leks C vetkovic , https://www.handcutradio.com
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感兴趣的文章,由 Avery Trufelman 主持,https://99percentinvisible.org/aoi/ Handcut Radio,由 A leks C vetkovic 主持,https://www.handcutradio.com
DOI:
10.1080/00404969.2021.2037913
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发表时间:
2022
期刊:
影响因子:
1
通讯作者:
Madsen C
中科院分区:
文献类型:
--
作者:
Madsen C
Articles of Interest is comprised of twenty-to thirty-minute episodes with pre-recorded clips, studio audio recording from host Avery Trufelman, field recordings with interviewees and occasional audio effects, resulting in a well-produced programme. The three episodes reviewed (‘# 3 Pockets’,‘# 6 Punk Style’,‘# 10 Suits’) open with short anecdotes from interviewees. These recollections—of getting locked out of a dorm due to a lack of pockets to hold house keys, being harassed for wearing clothes deviating from the accepted norm or falling in love with tailored suits—act as anchors for the following concise journeys through an aspect of the episode topic. Weaving together elements of social and design history, facets of dress are explored by Trufelman, led by a narrative that seems to emerge from her own curiosity. For example, episode ‘# 3 Pockets’ begins by discussing the often-explored inequity between functional pockets in women’s and men’s clothing, touching on functions of safekeeping and utility over the centuries and evolving into, as she describes it, a ‘metaphor for privilege’. Trufelman interviews key figures in the areas the podcast explores: leading pocket history scholar Barbara Burman is included in ‘# 3 Pockets’, and Victoria and Albert Museum curator Claire Wilcox discusses Vivienne Westwood in ‘# 6 Punk Style’. Trufelman mines her richest narrative seam in interviews with people discussing their lived experiences with garments. DJ and filmmaker Don Letts and curator and Westwood collector Michael Costiff describe the feeling of wearing punk clothes in 1970s London, providing textual insight that supersedes the audio-only format of the podcast. For men’s fashion writer G. Bruce Boyer (‘# 10 Suits’), the passion verging on obsession in his voice when he highlights the details of tailored suiting contextualises the intoxicating potential of clothing. Handcut Radio aims to explore the specific topic of men’s fashion through ‘interviews with industry insiders and leading brands’ such as Levi’s and Oliver Spencer, though the three interviews selected for this review (‘# 32 Scott Fraser Simpson’,‘# 33 André Larnyoh’,‘# 39 Fred Nieddu’) focus on individual makers and personalities. Recorded both in studio and in the field, all three episodes emphasise the highly personal nature of clothing for these men, unravelled in a single interview between the subject and host Aleks Cvetkovic. As a well-placed journalist within the tailoring-minded segment of the ‘menswear’industry, he approaches his questioning from a place of expertise, but also as a self-professed fan of his interview subjects. The resulting episodes are wide-ranging and intimate, a casual conversation between peers that taps into the inspirations and passions of men deeply engaged with their dressed selves.Cvetkovic’s insider knowledge of ‘menswear’(particularly of notable characters in the industry, niche brands and long-defunct shops) acts as an encouragement for interviewees to share their own experiences with clothing. There is a shorthand in these exchanges that sidesteps any need for these men to justify their interest in clothing (how this interest intersects with notions of masculinity is