Gendering Fashion, Fashioning Fur: On the (re)production of a Gendered Labor Market within a Craft Industry in Transition
Gendering Fashion, Fashioning Fur: On the (re)production of a Gendered Labor Market within a Craft Industry in Transition
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性别时尚，时尚皮草：论转型中手工艺工业中性别劳动力市场的（再）生产
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发表时间：
2014
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通讯作者：
N. Rantisi
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作者：
N. Rantisi
新经济对劳动力市场的性别平等有何影响？将“非物质”劳动力（思想的生产）置于“物质”劳动力（手工生产商品）之上的经济是否意味着劳动力市场包容性更大的可能性？在新经济的关键帐户的基础上，我通过分析加拿大毛皮业的当代结构调整来研究持续的性别等级制度的基础。作为一个传统的手工业，皮草业通过将“非物质”劳动融入时装设计的形式来适应新经济的要求。然而，这些努力是有限的，因为（主要是男性）毛皮制造商一直试图保持在不断变化的经济中的权威，通过整合设计作为一个从属活动，通过编码的从属地位成为可能的设计作为女性，并通过部署时装设计师作为灵活的劳动力来源。通过对制造商、设计师和其他行业参与者的采访，我分析了新经济的必要性如何与当地的制度实践和意识形态交叉，以重现一个性别化的劳动力市场。
What are the implications of the new economy for gender equality in labor markets? Does an economy that privileges ‘immaterial’ labor (the production of ideas) over ‘material’ labor (the manual production of goods) signal the possibility for greater labor market inclusion? Building on critical accounts of the new economy, I examine the bases for continued gender hierarchies through an analysis of the contemporary restructuring of the fur industry in Canada. As a traditional craft industry, fur has sought to adapt to new-economy imperatives by incorporating ‘immaterial’ labor in the form of fashion design. However, these efforts have been limited, as the (predominantly male) fur manufacturers have sought to retain authority in a changing economy by integrating design as a subordinate activity—a subordination made possible through a coding of design as feminine and through the deployment of the fashion designer as a flexible source of labor. Drawing on interviews with manufacturers, designers, and other industry actors, I analyze how new-economy imperatives intersect with local institutional practices and ideologies to reproduce a gendered labor market.