Simulating nonlinear waves on the free surface in surf zones with two-dimensional sloping beach
Simulating nonlinear waves on the free surface in surf zones with two-dimensional sloping beach
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DOI：
10.1016/j.oceaneng.2004.01.008
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发表时间：
2005
影响因子：
5
通讯作者：
Young-Gill Lee;J. Heo
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
Young-Gill Lee;J. Heo
本文采用矩形网格有限差分法，数值模拟了浅水自由水面和各种几何形状斜坡上的非定常非线性波浪运动。计算采用二维Navier-Stokes方程和连续性方程。在物体和自由表面边界附近采用不规则的腿长和星形来满足边界条件。在满足运动学和动力学自由面条件的情况下，每一时间步确定由标记或段组成的自由面。此外，还采用了标记密度法来考虑自由表面上的冲击射流。线性或斯托克斯波理论用于在流入边界上产生波。为了模拟波浪破碎现象，对不同波浪周期和碎波区海底坡度进行了计算。与其他现有的计算和实验结果进行了比较。计算结果与实验数据吻合较好。
Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface in shallow water and over slopes of various geometries are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. Either linear or Stokes wave theory is employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with various wave periods and sea bottom slopes in surf zone. The results are compared with other existing computational and experimental results. Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.