Wave Breaking in Directional Fields

Wave Breaking in Directional Fields
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DOI:
10.1175/2010jpo4455.1
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发表时间:
2011
影响因子:
3.5
通讯作者:
A. Babanin;T. Waseda;T. Kinoshita;A. Toffoli
A. Babanin;T. Waseda;T. Kinoshita;A. Toffoli
中科院分区:
地球科学2区
文献类型:
--
作者:
A. Babanin;T. Waseda;T. Kinoshita;A. Toffoli

文献摘要

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摘要波浪破碎是在实验室实验中观察到的,波浪具有现实的平均陡度和定向传播。结果表明,在这种情况下,调制不稳定性机制是活跃的,并可能导致破碎。在东京大学的定向波水槽中进行了实验,机械产生的波场由频域中具有边带的初级波组成,在角域中具有连续的方向分布。初始陡度的主波和边带,以及方向分布的宽度在很宽的范围内变化,以确定组合的陡度/方向扩展属性,分离调制不稳定性打破的线性聚焦打破。
Abstract Wave breaking is observed in a laboratory experiment with waves of realistic average steepness and directional spread. It is shown that a modulational-instability mechanism is active in such circumstances and can lead to the breaking. Experiments were conducted in the directional wave tank of the University of Tokyo, and the mechanically generated wave fields consisted of a primary wave with sidebands in the frequency domain, with continuous directional distribution in the angular domain. Initial steepness of the primary wave and sidebands, as well as the width of directional distributions varied in a broad range to determine the combination of steepness/directional-spread properties that separates modulational-instability breaking from the linear-focusing breaking.