Disconnecting Labour? The Labour Process in the UK Fast Fashion Value Chain
Disconnecting Labour? The Labour Process in the UK Fast Fashion Value Chain
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切断劳动力？
DOI：
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发表时间：
2019
期刊：
影响因子：
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通讯作者：
Réka Plugor
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
Nikolaus Hammer;Réka Plugor
本文重点讨论劳动过程和全球价值链之间的相互联系。它借鉴了英国服装制造业的重新增长，特别是在快速时尚价值链中，并询问价值链要求如何转化为劳动过程，以及后者如何实现快速反应制造。案例研究表明，买方主导的公司如何产生加速的资本循环的快时尚，这依赖于制造商和工人的细分增加，消除劳动过程中的非生产性空间，以及进一步上升的非正规化和劳动力的不稳定性。这篇文章展示了快时尚价值链中的战略脱节：上游制造商只有在将劳动力与领先企业的“道德”标准断开（非正式化）的情况下，才能满足领先企业的经济和运营标准。
This article focuses on the interlinkages between the labour process and global value chains. It draws on the renewed growth in UK apparel manufacturing, specifically within the fast fashion value chain, and asks how value chain requirements are translated into the labour process as well as how the latter enables quick response manufacturing. The case study shows how buyer-lead firms engender accelerated capital circuits of fast fashion which rely on an increased segmentation of manufacturers and workers, the elimination of unproductive spaces in the labour process, and a further rise in the informalisation and precarity of labour. The article demonstrates a strategic disconnection within the fast fashion value chain: upstream manufacturers are only able to satisfy lead firms’ economic and operational standards if they disconnect – informalise – labour from the latter’s ‘ethical’ standards.