On the growth of ocean waves
On the growth of ocean waves
复制标题
论海浪的增长
DOI：
10.1016/j.oceaneng.2006.09.004
复制
发表时间：
2007
影响因子：
5
通讯作者：
Hsuan S. Chen
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
Paul C. Liu;Cheng;Hsuan S. Chen
对西太平洋记录的风浪进行了10小时的连续、不间断的现场测量，其中包含了完整的海浪增长事件，这为我们提供了一个独特的机会，使我们能够对详细的海浪增长过程进行前所未有的新颖检查。我们发现，测量中使用的数据大小的重要性只能通过连续和不间断的测量来解决，反映了传统方法对进一步详细了解现实波增长过程的不恰当，因为传统的20分钟数据大小基本上排除了时间尺度低于20分钟的任何动力学。虽然我们的传统理解和建模总体上是可操作和有用的，但它们并没有在时间局部化机制上留下真正的痕迹，例如波群或波破裂过程，这些机制的时间尺度都远远小于20min。
The availability of 10h of continuous, uninterrupted field measurements of wind waves recorded in the western Pacific and containing a complete wave growth episode, has provided a distinct opportunity for us to make a novel, unprecedented examination of detailed wave growth processes. We found that the significance of the size of data used in the measurement, which can only be addressed with continuous and uninterrupted measurements, reflected the ineptness of the conventional approach toward further detailed understanding of realistic wave growth processes, as the conventional 20min data size essentially stamped out any dynamics with time scale below 20min. While our conventional understanding and modeling were generally operative and useful, they left no real vestige on time localized mechanisms such as wave grouping or wave breaking processes all with time scales much less than 20min.