Solitary wave run-up: wave breaking and bore propagation
Solitary wave run-up: wave breaking and bore propagation
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DOI：
10.1080/00221686.2017.1356756
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发表时间：
2017-09
影响因子：
2.3
通讯作者：
H. Hafsteinsson;Frederic M. Evers;W. Hager
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
H. Hafsteinsson;Frederic M. Evers;W. Hager
**摘要**：利用高速图像和系统的数据分析，描述了破碎孤立波在平面斜坡海滩上的爬高特征。实验是在一个光滑的、矩形的棱柱形水槽中进行的。所研究的主要水力参数包括相对波高、静水深度和水槽底部坡度。讨论了各种类型的波浪破碎，除了因波浪浅化导致的波幅演变外，还包括卷破波、崩破波和涌破波类型。此外，还研究了涌潮的产生和传播。基于水力相似性进行的详细数据分析，推导出了被认为能够代表所观测到的波浪特征的数学表达式。该研究包括描述波浪爬高特征的类似影片的图像系列，从而能够描述所观测到的水流复杂性以及与波浪爬高相关的美妙之处。鉴于湍流产生和空气夹带所带来的复杂性，本研究不包括数值分析。
ABSTRACT The run-up features of breaking solitary waves over a plane sloping beach are described using both high-speed images and a systematic data analysis. Experiments were conducted in a smooth, rectangular and prismatic channel. The main hydraulic parameters investigated include relative wave height, stillwater depth, and channel bottom inclination. The various types of wave breaking are discussed, including the plunging, spilling, and surging breaker types in addition to the amplitude evolution due to wave shoaling. Furthermore, the generation and propagation of bores is examined. A detailed data analysis, based on hydraulic similitude, allows for deriving mathematical expressions that are considered to represent the observed wave features. The research includes film-like image series describing the wave run-up features, allowing for a description of the flow complexities observed and the beauties associated with wave run-up. This research excludes a numerical analysis, given the complexities due to turbulence generation and air entrainment.