Designing for Movement: Dance Costumes, Art Schools and Natural Movement in the Early Twentieth Century
Designing for Movement: Dance Costumes, Art Schools and Natural Movement in the Early Twentieth Century
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运动设计：二十世纪初的舞蹈服装、艺术流派和自然运动
DOI：
10.1093/jdh/epv017
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发表时间：
2015
影响因子：
0.2
通讯作者：
Fensham R
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
Fensham R
本文使用二十世纪初期为玛奇·阿特金森领导的自然运动学院设计的服装，特别关注设计教育的作用以及现代舞实验中对设计的更非正式的理解。它定位了二十世纪初曼彻斯特文化史上服装和舞蹈之间的艺术合作。它特别讨论了设计师沃尔特·格里蒙德 (Walter Grimmond)、莉莲·雷伯恩 (Lilian Reburn)、斯特拉·玛丽·皮尔斯 (Stella Mary Pearce) 和埃莉诺 (埃拉)·斯林 (Eleanor (Ella) Slinn) 在与阿特金森和她的舞者的合作中形成的独特设计方法的发展。它还考虑了曼彻斯特艺术与设计学院的沃尔特·克兰（Walter Crane）和刘易斯·福尔曼·戴（Lewis Foreman Day）等顶尖设计教师的影响力，他们构建了由贸易、文化旅游和亚洲哲学观点塑造的创新课程。设计师对图案、颜色、形状和装饰的了解以及舞者与动觉图像制作的互动相结合，产生了一套多样化的服装设计和动作表达方法。这种对设计原则的创造性应用，在邻近的曼彻斯特纺织工业的支持下，有助于构建一个艺术环境，在英国推进现代设计和性能概念。
Using costumes created for the School of Natural Movement led by Madge Atkinson in the early twentieth century, this article focuses particularly on the role of design education and the more informal understandings of design emerging from experimentation in modern dance. It locates artistic collaborations between costumes and choreography in the cultural history of Manchester during the early twentieth century. In particular it discusses the development of unique approaches to design by the designers Walter Grimmond, Lilian Reburn, Stella Mary Pearce and Eleanor (Ella) Slinn, arising from their involvement with Atkinson and her dancers. It also considers the influence of leading design teachers, such as Walter Crane and Lewis Foreman Day, at the Manchester School of Art and Design, who constructed an innovative curriculum shaped by trade, cultural tourism and Asian philosophical perspectives. The combination of the designers’ knowledge of pattern, colour, shape and ornament and the dancers’ interaction with kinaesthetic image-making produced a set of diverse approaches to costume design and movement expression. This creative application of design principles, supported by the proximity of the Manchester textile industry, helped to construct an artistic milieu in which modern conceptions of design and performance were advanced in Britain.