THE DYNAMICS OF A COAST WITH A GROYNE SYSTEM
THE DYNAMICS OF A COAST WITH A GROYNE SYSTEM
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具有防波堤系统的海岸的动态
DOI：
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发表时间：
1970
期刊：
影响因子：
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通讯作者：
W. Bakker
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
W. Bakker
一个数学理论将给出的现象，如果发生在沿海地区丁坝建设。在以前的类似理论中（[1]，[2]，[3]，[4]，[5]），海岸是用一条海岸线来图解的。在下面的理论中，它由两条线表示，一条线代表海滩，另一条线代表近岸。该理论基于以下假设：1°沿着海滩和近岸的沿岸的漂移与波浪入射角呈线性相关，因此分别与海滩和近岸线的方向相关; 2垂直于海岸的输运取决于剖面的陡度。如果海滩线与近岸线之间的距离小于某个平衡距离，则剖面太陡，存在离岸输运。在相反的情况下，有一个陆上运输。海上运输和上述线路之间的距离之间的关系是线性的。图8、图9和图13中示出了一些结果。研究发现，丁坝系统的影响有三个方面：它们反映了邻近地区的短期海滩过程，它们减缓了侵蚀，它们产生了背风面冲刷。但该理论只给出了一个方面：衍射和电流的影响尚未考虑在内。
A mathematical theory will be given about the phenomena, which occur if on a coastal area groynes are constructed. In former similar theories ( [1] , [2], [3] , [4], [5] ) the coast was schematised by one coastline. In the following theory it is presented by two lines, one line representing the beach and the other one the inshore. The theory is based upon the following assumptions- 1° the littoral drift along beach and inshore is linear dependent of the angle of wave incidence and therefore of the direction of the line of beach and inshore respectively; 2 the transport perpendicular to the coast depends on the steepness of the profile. If the distance between the line of the beach and the line of the inshore is less than a certain equilibrium distance, the profile is too steep and there is an offshore transport. In the opposite case there is an onshore transport. The relation between offshore transport and distance between the mentioned lines is linearised. Some results are shown in fig. 8, 9 and 13. It is found, dat the influence of a groyne system is threefold: they reflect short-period beach processes on the adjacent areas, they retard erosion and they give a lee-side scour. But the theory only gives one aspect: influence of diffraction and of currents is not yet taken into account.