On the Growth of the Spectrum of Wind-Generated Waves
On the Growth of the Spectrum of Wind-Generated Waves
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DOI：
10.1080/05785634.1970.11924105
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发表时间：
1970-12
影响因子：
2.4
通讯作者：
H. Mitsuyasu
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
H. Mitsuyasu
本文介绍了在实验室水槽和海湾中测量的有关取限风浪特性的一些最新实验结果。由风浪资料和所提出的谱确定了与威尔逊公式IV(Wilson(1965))非常接近的提取关系。测得光谱的高频部分与菲利普斯公式基本一致，但常数“β”不是万能常数。正如Longuet-Higgins(1969)从理论上指出的那样，β的值随着无量纲取值的增加而减小。利用Kitaigorodskii(1962)的相似理论对光谱数据的低频部分进行了分析，确定了光谱低频部分的形式。将高频和低频的结果拼接在一起，提出了有限取值的一维风浪谱的形式，为实际预报提供了参考。
ABSTRACTThis paper presents some recent experimental results concerning properties of fetch-limited wind waves, which have been measured in a laboratory tank and in a bay. The fetch relations which are very close to Wilson's formulas IV (Wilson (1965)), are determined both from the wind and wave data and from the proposed spectrum. The high frequency part of the measured spectra are approximately consistent with Phillips formula, except that the constant “β” is not a universal constant. It is shown that the value of β decreases with the increase of a dimensionless fetch, as has been pointed out theoretically by Longuet-Higgins (1969). The low frequency part of the spectral data is analyzed using the similarity theory of Kitaigorodskii (1962), and the form of the low frequency part of the spectrum is determined. Patching together the results for high and low frequencies, a form is proposed for one-dimensional spectrum of wind-generated waves at limited fetch, which is useful for practical forcasting.