A Unified Breaking Onset Criterion for Surface Gravity Water Waves in Arbitrary Depth

A Unified Breaking Onset Criterion for Surface Gravity Water Waves in Arbitrary Depth
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DOI:
10.1029/2019jc015886
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发表时间:
2020-07-01
影响因子:
3.6
通讯作者:
Thomson, Jim
Thomson, Jim
中科院分区:
地球科学2区
文献类型:
--
作者:
Derakhti, Morteza;Kirby, James T.;Thomson, Jim

文献摘要

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我们考察了Barthelemy等人的有效性和稳健性。(2018)任意水深地表重力水波的破波起始预报框架,包括在不同水深范围内的浅水破浪。我们证明了Barthelemy等人。(2018)的破裂起始标准,他们对深水和中水深度进行了验证,还将浅水中的破裂波峰与不破裂波峰分开,随后的破坏总是在超过其建议的通用破坏阈值之后。我们考虑了一些典型的波浪类型,包括规则波、不规则波、孤立波和聚焦波,它们在理想化的河床地形上浅滩,包括理想化的沙洲几何形状和缓坡到陡峭的平面海滩。结果表明,新的破裂起始判据能够在任意水深的时间和空间上检测单个和多个破裂事件。此外,我们还发现,与文献中现有的运动学或几何断裂起始标准相比,新的通用标准提供了更好的技巧来通知即将到来的破裂开始。特别是,新的判据适用于不能本质上检测到波浪破裂开始的波浪分辨模型。
We investigate the validity and robustness of the Barthelemy et al. (2018, ) wave-breaking onset prediction framework for surface gravity water waves in arbitrary water depth, including shallow water breaking over varying bathymetry. We show that the Barthelemy et al. (2018) breaking onset criterion, which they validated for deep and intermediate water depths, also segregates breaking crests from nonbreaking crests in shallow water, with subsequent breaking always following the exceedance of their proposed generic breaking threshold. We consider a number of representative wave types, including regular, irregular, solitary, and focused waves, shoaling over idealized bed topographies including an idealized bar geometry and a mildly to steeply sloping planar beach. Our results show that the new breaking onset criterion is capable of detecting single and multiple breaking events in time and space in arbitrary water depth. Further, we show that the new generic criterion provides improved skill for signaling imminent breaking onset, relative to the available kinematic or geometric breaking onset criteria in the literature. In particular, the new criterion is suitable for use in wave-resolving models that cannot intrinsically detect the onset of wave breaking.