Characteristics of counter-movements in sport climbing: a comparison between experienced climbers and beginners
Characteristics of counter-movements in sport climbing: a comparison between experienced climbers and beginners
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运动攀岩中反向运动的特征：经验丰富的攀岩者与初学者的比较
DOI：
10.1589/jpts.31.349
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发表时间：
2019
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
M. Sakamoto
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
Daichi Asakawa;M. Sakamoto
[目的]根据有经验的攀岩者和初学者在基本动作上的差异，评价运动攀岩的运动特征。[参与者和方法]18名健康男性参与了这项研究，其中9名是有经验的登山者，9名是初学者。用两台数码相机进行了二维运动分析。动作任务为反动作，包括动作前和动作后，分为5个阶段。在每个阶段，计算肩、肘、臀、膝和躯干的关节角度。在额面上，计算重心(COG)轨迹、运动速度和运动时间，并对各阶段的登山者和初学者进行比较。[结果]COG运动宽度在水平方向上有显著差异。初学者的肩部屈曲和外展较小，支撑侧肘关节屈曲较大，支撑侧髋关节屈曲和外展较小，膝关节屈曲较小。[结论]本研究建议登山者采取有效利用躯干和下肢活动COG来减轻上肢负担的策略。
[Purpose] This study aimed to evaluate the movement characteristics of sport climbing on the basis of the difference in basic movements between experienced climbers and beginners. [Participants and Methods] Eighteen healthy men participated in this study, including 9 experienced climbers and 9 beginners. A two-dimensional motion analysis was conducted with two digital cameras. The motion tasks were the counter-movements, including before and after each movement, which was classified into 5 phases. In each phase, the joint angles of the shoulder, elbow, hip, knee, and trunk were calculated. In the frontal plane, the center of gravity (COG) trajectory, motion speed, and motion time were calculated, which were compared between the climbers and the beginners in each phase. [Results] A significant difference was observed in the horizontal direction of the COG movement width. The beginners tended to have smaller shoulder flexion and abduction, and larger elbow flexion on the supporting side, and smaller hip flexion and abduction and knee flexion on the support side than the climbers. [Conclusion] This study suggests that climbers adopt a strategy to reduce the burden on the upper extremities by efficiently using the trunk and lower extremities to move their COG.