Effectiveness of mountaineering manual belay/abseil devices
Effectiveness of mountaineering manual belay/abseil devices
复制标题
登山手动保护/绕绳装置的有效性
DOI：
10.1007/s12283-013-0147-6
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发表时间：
2014
影响因子：
1.7
通讯作者：
M. Thomas
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
W. Stronge;M. Thomas
登山者和攀岩者使用保护索装置来增加连接保护者和坠落的登山者的绳子的张力--这种绳子减缓并最终阻止坠落。使用手动(被动)保护装置，保护者可以承受几个千牛顿的力，尽管他/她只在绳索上施加0.2-0.35千牛顿的手力；即，该装置将手力增加5到10倍。这项调查提供了各种手动保护装置在各种湿绳和干绳上使用时的力放大动态测量，并检查了这些装置的力放大来源。力的放大被发现是由于绳索在穿过设备内的紧凑角落时的摩擦和变形的组合。在现代设备中，由于变形引起的张力放大超过了由于摩擦引起的张力放大。
Mountaineers and rock climbers use a belay device to increase tension in the rope that links the belayer to a falling climber—this rope slows and finally stops the fall. With a manual (passive) belay device the belayer can hold a force of several kN although he/she applies a hand force of only 0.2–0.35 kN on the rope; i.e. the device increases the hand force by a factor between 5 and 10. This investigation provides dynamic measurements of force amplification by various manual belay devices when used on a range of both wet and dry climbing ropes and it examines the source of force amplification in these devices. The force amplification is found to be due to a combination of friction and distortion of the rope as it traverses around tight corners within the device. In modern devices, the tension amplification due to distortion exceeds that due to friction.