Surfing surface gravity waves
Surfing surface gravity waves
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冲浪表面重力波
DOI：
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发表时间：
2017
影响因子：
3.7
通讯作者：
N. Pizzo
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
N. Pizzo
本文提出了一个简单的水质点与下垫面重力波碰撞的判据。据发现，颗粒附近的波的相速度，在一个几何限制的区域上的前面的波峰，速度增加。该标准是使用John（Commun.）的方程推导出来的。Pure Appl. Maths，vol. 6，1953，pp. 497-503）在重力作用下零应力自由表面的运动。作为一个例子，破碎水波的理论和数值研究。上层海洋过程的影响，浅水和深水波，进行了讨论。
A simple criterion for water particles to surf an underlying surface gravity wave is presented. It is found that particles travelling near the phase speed of the wave, in a geometrically confined region on the forward face of the crest, increase in speed. The criterion is derived using the equation of John (Commun. Pure Appl. Maths, vol. 6, 1953, pp. 497–503) for the motion of a zero-stress free surface under the action of gravity. As an example, a breaking water wave is theoretically and numerically examined. Implications for upper-ocean processes, for both shallow- and deep-water waves, are discussed.