Exoticisation Undressed: Ethnographic Nostalgia and Authenticity in Embera Clothes
Exoticisation Undressed: Ethnographic Nostalgia and Authenticity in Embera Clothes
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DOI：
10.7228/manchester/9781526100832.001.0001
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发表时间：
2016-07
期刊：
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
D. Theodossopoulos
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文献类型：
--
作者：
D. Theodossopoulos
“不穿衣服的异国情调”是一种创新的民族志，它使我们对土著文化的理解被过滤的许多层次及其扭曲和扭曲理解的内在力量变得可见。这本书详细介绍了巴拿马Embera人的服装习俗，这是一个美洲印第安人族群，他们通过参与土著旅游业而获得了国内和国际知名度。穿着土著服装以提高知名度的行为本身鼓励了一些恩贝拉社区更密切地认同土著身份和更自信的代表意识。Embera人穿的衣服不仅仅是用来传达信息，而且也成为他们想要传达的信息的组成部分。通过穿着本土和现代的服装，Embera人--他们经常被外人视为一个正在消失的世界的阴影--重新夺回了他们作为当代国家公民的地位。书中的分析使“民族志怀旧”变得清晰可见，这种扭曲的观点认为，现在似乎是通过以前的民族志页面出现的，这是一种海市蜃楼：例如，Embera人穿着他们的祖父母的衣服做日常家务。民族志怀旧通过将对潜在文化模式的解释叠加在有意或有目的的行动上来扭曲社会现实。通过反身性的参与，“脱衣服的异国情调”暴露了民族志怀旧的运作和西方对单一的原始真实性的追求，相反，解开了逆转和颠覆异国情调的复杂性的新层次。
'Exoticisation Undressed' is an innovative ethnography that makes visible the many layers through which our understandings of indigenous cultures are filtered and their inherent power to distort and refract understanding. The book focuses in detail on the clothing practices of the Embera in Panama, an Amerindian ethnic group, who have gained national and international visibility through their engagement with indigenous tourism. The very act of gaining visibility while wearing indigenous attire has encouraged among some Embera communities a closer identification with an indigenous identity and a more confident representational awareness. The clothes that the Embera wear are not simply used to convey messages, but also become constitutive of their intended messages. By wearing indigenous-and-modern clothes, the Embera-who are often seen by outsiders as shadows of a vanishing world-reclaim their place as citizens of a contemporary nation. The analysis presented in the book makes visible 'ethnographic nostalgia', the distorting view that the present seems to emerge through the pages of a previous ethnography—a mirage: for example, the Embera carrying out their daily chores dressed as their grandparents. Ethnographic nostalgia distorts social reality by superimposing an interpretation of underlying cultural patterns over intentional or purposeful action. Through reflexive engagement, 'Exoticisation undressed' exposes the workings of ethnographic nostalgia and the Western quest for a singular, primordial authenticity, unravelling instead new layers of complexity that reverse and subvert exoticisation.