The large-scale influence of the Great Barrier Reef matrix on wave attenuation
The large-scale influence of the Great Barrier Reef matrix on wave attenuation
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DOI：
10.1007/s00338-014-1205-7
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发表时间：
2014-09
期刊：
影响因子：
3.5
通讯作者：
S. Gallop;I. Young;R.W.M.R.J.B. Ranasinghe;T. Durrant;I. Haigh
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
S. Gallop;I. Young;R.W.M.R.J.B. Ranasinghe;T. Durrant;I. Haigh
近海珊瑚礁系统由单个珊瑚礁组成，珊瑚礁之间有空间，它们共同构成了珊瑚礁基质。这是第一个关于近海珊瑚礁系统对波浪气候和波浪传播影响的全面、大规模研究。重点是澳大利亚大堡礁 (GBR)，利用七个卫星高度计 16 年的波高记录。在大堡礁基质内，波浪气候并不强烈依赖于珊瑚礁基质的淹没。这表明，在珊瑚礁基质的临海边缘发生初始波浪破碎后，穿透基质的波浪能量几乎没有深度调制。没有明确的证据表明，随着珊瑚礁基质孔隙度（单个珊瑚礁之间的空间与珊瑚礁面积的比率）降低，波浪衰减会增加。这是因为单个珊瑚礁投射出的波影比珊瑚礁本身大得多；因此，孤立的珊瑚礁矩阵对于衰减波浪能量非常有效。透射波能对珊瑚礁淹没深度和珊瑚礁基质孔隙度的弱依赖性在 GBR 基质的背风处也很明显。在这里，波浪条件似乎主要取决于当地风速，而不是向海或珊瑚礁基质内的波浪条件。这是因为无论水深和珊瑚礁基质孔隙度如何，GBR 基质都是非常有效的波浪吸收剂。
Offshore reef systems consist of individual reefs, with spaces in between, which together constitute the reef matrix. This is the first comprehensive, large-scale study, of the influence of an offshore reef system on wave climate and wave transmission. The focus was on the Great Barrier Reef (GBR), Australia, utilizing a 16-yr record of wave height from seven satellite altimeters. Within the GBR matrix, the wave climate is not strongly dependent on reef matrix submergence. This suggests that after initial wave breaking at the seaward edge of the reef matrix, wave energy that penetrates the matrix has little depth modulation. There is no clear evidence to suggest that as reef matrix porosity (ratio of spaces between individual reefs to reef area) decreases, wave attenuation increases. This is because individual reefs cast a wave shadow much larger than the reef itself; thus, a matrix of isolated reefs is remarkably effective at attenuating wave energy. This weak dependence of transmitted wave energy on depth of reef submergence, and reef matrix porosity, is also evident in the lee of the GBR matrix. Here, wave conditions appear to be dependent largely on local wind speed, rather than wave conditions either seaward, or within the reef matrix. This is because the GBR matrix is a very effective wave absorber, irrespective of water depth and reef matrix porosity.