On Stuff and Nonsense: The Complexity of Cloth
On Stuff and Nonsense: The Complexity of Cloth
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论物质与废话：布料的复杂性
DOI：
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发表时间：
2005
期刊：
影响因子：
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通讯作者：
Claire Pajaczkowska
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
Claire Pajaczkowska
在构成生命从出生到死亡的损失谱中，布的存在是区分自然和文化的中心能指。因此，布料在其文化意义上永远保持着界限。这种阈限性就像气味一样，存在于“东西”这个词的意义中，“东西”是法语étoffe或cloth的翻译。从口语上讲，“东西”已经成为一个用来指代一般的“物”或未指明的物质性的术语，它以一种雄辩的方式表达了我们文化与纺织品和触觉的矛盾关系。我们体验到的布料既不是客体也不是主体，而是两者之间的门槛，是意义分解为物质性的一个界限，威胁着无意义。正是这种无意义的品质使纺织品特别有趣。
Abstract In the spectrum of losses that structures life from birth to death, the presence of cloth is a central signifier that differentiates nature from culture. Cloth thereby remains forever liminal in its cultural significance. This liminality is held, like a smell, in the meaning of the word “stuff,” a translation of the French étoffe or cloth. Stuff has become, colloquially, a term used to designate generic “thingness,” or unspecified materiality, in a way that gives eloquent expression to our culture's ambivalent relationship to textiles and to the tactile. We experience cloth as neither object nor subject, but as the threshold between, as a liminality where meaning decomposes into materiality, and threatens nonsense. It is this quality of non-sense that makes textiles especially interesting.