Effect of changes in knit structure and density on the mechanical and and properties weft-knitted fabrics for outerwear
Effect of changes in knit structure and density on the mechanical and and properties weft-knitted fabrics for outerwear
复制标题
DOI：
10.1177/004051750007001201
复制
发表时间：
2000-12-01
影响因子：
2.3
通讯作者：
Ashdown, SP
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
Choi, MS;Ashdown, SP
本研究主要探讨针织物结构与密度对针织物机械性能的影响，以及手感、结构与密度之间的关系。生产了18件纬针织衫，具有六种不同的结构（I x 1罗纹、半羊毛衫罗纹、半米兰罗纹、互锁、单凸花和交叉互锁）和三种不同的密度（宽松、中等、紧身）。使用KES-F方法测量织物的机械性能和手感值。织物密度越高，拉伸性能越好，弯曲和剪切性能也会增加。压缩值随着针织密度的增加而有所降低，但压缩值的差异不是很大。表面性质如柔软度和光滑度随着密度而增加。拉伸性能的具体结果表明，当应力施加在路线方向上时，单齿和交叉互锁不能吸收与1 x 1肋和互锁一样多的外部应力。具有集圈和缺圈组织的针织物（半开襟罗纹、半米兰罗纹、单凸块和交叉缺圈互锁）比仅具有针织组织的织物具有更好的尺寸稳定性。主要手感值的测试显示，随着针织密度的增加，刚度、丰满度和柔软度增加，平滑度降低。总手感值随针织密度增加而增加。双面针织物比单面针织物显示出更高的总手感值。半米兰肋和交叉互锁结构具有最高的总手值。基于测试结果和对当前市场对具有柔软手感的尺寸稳定织物的需求的理解，我们得出结论，具有组合漏针和集圈针的针织结构表现出适合于冬季外衣织物的特性。
This study focuses on the mechanical properties of weft knits for outerwear as a function of knit structure and density and the relationships between hand, structure, and density. Eighteen weft knits are produced with six different structures (I x 1 rib, half-cardigan rib, half-milano rib, interlock, single-pique, and crossmiss interlock) and three different densities (loose, medium, tight). The mechanical properties and hand values of the fabrics are measured using the KES-F method. Tensile properties increase for fabrics with a higher density, as do bending and shear properties. Compression values decrease somewhat as knit density increases but differences in compression values are not very large. Surface properties such as softness and smoothness increase with density. Specific findings for tensile properties reveal that the single-pique and the crossmiss interlock can not absorb external stress as much as the 1 x 1 rib and the interlock when stresses are applied in the course direction. Knits with tuck and miss stitches (half-cardigan rib, half-milano rib, single-pique, and crossmiss interlock) have better dimensional stability than fabrics with only knit stitches. Testing of primary hand values shows increased stiffness and fullness and softness and decreased smoothness as knit density increases. Total hand value increases with knit density. Double knits show higher total hand values than single knits. Half-milano rib and crossmiss interlock structures have the highest total hand values. Based on the tests results and an understanding of current market needs for dimensionally stable fabrics with a soft hand, we conclude that knit structures with combined miss and tuck stitches exhibit properties appropriate for outerwear fabrics for the winter season.