Elucidation of wave pressure acting on a wave-cut notch beneath a coastal cliff based on laboratory experiments and numerical modeling
Elucidation of wave pressure acting on a wave-cut notch beneath a coastal cliff based on laboratory experiments and numerical modeling
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基于实验室实验和数值模拟阐明作用在海岸悬崖下的波浪切槽上的波浪压力
DOI：
10.1016/j.oceaneng.2023.113656
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发表时间：
2023
影响因子：
5
通讯作者：
Taro Arikawa
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
Masashi Watanabe;Taro Arikawa
为了调查过去沉积悬崖顶巨石的极端波浪，重要的是阐明作用在沿海悬崖下方的波浪切割凹口上的波浪力。我们的实验室实验表明，沿海悬崖上的极端波浪会产生持续力和脉冲力，并且可以根据浮力来估计持续力，因为产生持续力时速度相当小。因此，沿海悬崖上的巨石可能是由脉冲力移动，而不是由持续力移动。我们还提出了公式的系数，该公式可以根据观测和模拟的波高和速度再现作用在凹口上的冲击力和持续波浪力。使用所提出的公式，无需数值模拟即可估计将巨石移上沿海悬崖所需的波高和速度。在我们未来的研究中，我们将考虑作用在沿海悬崖上的脉冲力的尺度效应。
To investigate past extreme waves which deposited cliff-top boulders, it is important to elucidate the wave force acting on wave-cut notches beneath coastal cliffs. Our laboratory experiments have revealed that extreme waves over coastal cliffs generated both sustained and impulsive forces, and that sustained forces can be estimated from buoyancy, because velocities are rather small when sustained forces are generated. Thus, boulders at coastal cliffs are likely moved by impulsive forces but not by sustained forces. We have also proposed coefficients of the formula which can reproduce impulsive and sustained wave forces acting on the notch based on observed and simulated wave heights and velocities. Using the proposed formula, wave heights and velocities that are necessary to move boulders up coastal cliffs can be estimated without numerical simulations. In our future investigation, we will account for the scaling effect of impulsive forces acting on coastal cliffs.