Infragravity response to variable wave forcing in the nearshore
Infragravity response to variable wave forcing in the nearshore
复制标题
近岸可变波浪强迫的次重力响应
DOI：
10.1002/2013jc009430
复制
发表时间：
2013
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
G. Symonds
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
S. Contardo;G. Symonds
[1] 对海面高程的现场观测分析揭示了时变事件强迫和束缚波释放机制对禁止海滩上产生次重力波的作用。次重力响应观测是在海风和涌浪期间获得的，波高从0.2到1.2 m变化，波浪周期从3到16 s变化。观测结果表明，对较长周期事件膨胀的次重力响应比对短周期风海的响应更强。海风高峰期，短周期风海有利于断点强迫产生长波。在膨胀主导条件下，与波群相关的入射束缚波的频率和波数可能满足线性色散关系，导致似乎从波群中释放的自由波的共振强迫。由于束缚波释放和时变断点强迫而产生的长波之间的转变与海浪节拍相似参数一致。
[1] Analysis of field observations of sea-surface elevation reveals the role of time-varying incident forcing and bound wave release mechanisms on the generation of infragravity waves on a barred beach. Observations of infragravity response were obtained during sea breeze and swell periods with wave height varying from 0.2 to 1.2 m and wave period from 3 to 16 s. The observations show a stronger infragravity response to longer period incident swell than to short period wind-sea. During the peak of the sea breeze, short period wind-sea is conducive to long wave generation by breakpoint forcing. Under swell-dominated conditions, the frequency and wave number of incoming bound waves associated with wave groups may satisfy the linear dispersion relationship, leading to resonant forcing of a free wave that appears to be released from the wave group. The transition between long wave generation due to bound wave release and time-varying breakpoint forcing agrees with the surf beat similarity parameter.