Characterization, sensorial evaluation and moisturizing efficacy of nanolipidgel formulations
Characterization, sensorial evaluation and moisturizing efficacy of nanolipidgel formulations
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DOI：
10.1111/ics.12109
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发表时间：
2014-04-01
影响因子：
2.3
通讯作者：
Sousa Lobo, J. M.
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
Estanqueiro, M.;Conceicao, J.;Sousa Lobo, J. M.
背景纳米脂质载体(NLC)因其良好的性质而被广泛研究用于美容和皮肤科，包括在皮肤表面形成一层闭塞膜，减少皮肤经皮水分损失(TEWL)和增加皮肤中的水分，从而改善健康皮肤的外观，并减轻某些皮肤病的症状，如湿疹。本研究的主要目的是以精油或荷荷巴油为液体脂，添加Carbopol(R)934或Carbopol(R)980作为胶凝剂，研制NLC半固体制剂，并进行仪器分析、感官评价和体内疗效评价的比较。方法采用超声技术制备纳米脂质载体分散体，并在水分散体中加入胶凝剂制备半固体制剂。测定了颗粒大小、多分散性指数和Zeta电位。通过流变学和质构分析进行器械表征，并进行感官评价。最后，用电容和蒸发法分别对皮肤水合和TEWL进行了研究。结果在所分析的所有处方中，颗粒均为纳米尺寸。所有的凝胶都呈现假塑性行为。由质构分析和感官评价确定的特性、坚固性和粘附性之间存在对应关系。显示皮肤水份增加较多的配方也为皮肤应用提供了适当的技术和感官属性。结论添加保湿剂的纳米脂凝胶制剂具有良好的感官、仪器特性和保湿效果，是一种很有前途的化妆品用制剂。
SynopsisBackgroundNanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) have been widely studied for cosmetic and dermatological applications due to their favourable properties that include the formation of an occlusive film on the skin surface that reduces the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increase in water content in the skin which improves the appearance on healthy human skin and reduces symptoms of some skin disorders like eczema. ObjectiveThe main objective of this study was the development of semisolid formulations based NLC with argan oil or jojoba oil as liquid lipids, by addition of Carbopol((R))934 or Carbopol((R))980 as gelling agents, followed by comparison between instrumental analysis and sensorial evaluation and in vivo efficacy evaluation. MethodsNanostructured lipid carriers dispersions were produced by the ultrasound technique, and to obtain a semisolid formulation, gelling agents were dispersed in the aqueous dispersion. Particle size, polydispersity index and zeta potential were determined. Instrumental characterization was performed by rheological and textural analysis; the sensorial evaluation was also performed. Finally, skin hydration and TEWL were studied by capacitance and evaporimetry evaluation, respectively. ResultsParticles showed a nanometric size in all the analysed formulations. All the gels present pseudoplastic behaviour. There is a correspondence between the properties firmness and adhesiveness as determined by textural analysis and the sensory evaluation. The formulations that showed a greater increase in skin hydration also presented appropriate technological and sensorial attributes for skin application. ConclusionsNanolipidgel formulations with the addition of humectants are promising systems for cosmetic application with good sensory and instrumental attributes and moisturizing efficacy.