Fashion Futuring in the Anthropocene: Sustainable Fashion as “Taming” and “Rewilding”
Fashion Futuring in the Anthropocene: Sustainable Fashion as “Taming” and “Rewilding”
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人类世的时尚未来：“驯服”与“野化”的可持续时尚
DOI：
10.1080/1362704x.2017.1374097
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发表时间：
2017
期刊：
影响因子：
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通讯作者：
A. Payne
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
A. Payne
人类世描述了我们当前的地质时代，在这个时代，人类活动已经发展成为一种行星力量。对“可持续时尚”的兴趣反映了解决时尚的社会和环境弊病的必要性。然而，对可持续时尚的思考仍然主要是以行业和用户为中心，研究有关行业如何改变实践的狭隘问题，或者用户如何以不同的方式参与时尚，因此只能在人类世的背景下默默定位。综合学术和行业的观点，本文建立了两个立场的可持续时尚，并将这些与人类的未来在人类世的哲学立场，采用伦理学家克莱夫汉密尔顿的命名。首先，时尚界的普罗米修斯，技术乐观主义者，提出了一个未来，在未来，清洁技术可以导致一个更好的行业逐步演变。相比之下，时尚界的Soterians采取了谨慎的态度，并寻求将时尚从资本主义本身不可持续的增长需求中解脱出来。在这两者之下，“可持续时尚”的定义可能会有所不同，但至关重要的是，他们的对话将塑造时尚的方向。他们的行动共同创造了一个“时尚未来”，一个在我们自己创造的世界中，我称之为时尚的“驯服”和“野性”之间的动态谈判过程。
Abstract The Anthropocene describes our current geological era, in which human activity has grown to become a planetary force. Interest in “sustainable fashion” reflects the necessity to address the social and environmental ills of fashion. Yet thinking on sustainable fashion remains chiefly industry and user-focused, examining narrow questions regarding how industry may shift practices, or how users may engage with fashion differently—hence only tacitly positioned within the context of the Anthropocene. Synthesizing scholarly and industry perspectives, this article establishes two positions on sustainable fashion, and aligns these with the philosophical positions of humanity’s future in the Anthropocene, adopting ethicist Clive Hamilton’s nomenclature. First, fashion’s Prometheans, the techno-optimists, propose a future in which cleaner technologies can lead to the gradual evolution of a better industry. In contrast, fashion’s Soterians take a cautionary approach, and seek to unbind fashion from the unsustainable growth imperative of capitalism itself. Under these two, the definition of “sustainable fashion” may differ, but, critically, their dialogue will shape the direction of fashion. Together, their actions create a “fashion futuring,” a dynamic process of negotiation between what I term the “taming” and the “rewilding” of fashion, within a world of our own making.
DOI：
10.1177/0973408215600602b
发表时间：
2015-09
期刊：
Journal of Education for Sustainable Development
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