Run-up of tsunamis and long waves in terms of surf-similarity
Run-up of tsunamis and long waves in terms of surf-similarity
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DOI：
10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.09.007
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发表时间：
2008-03
影响因子：
4.4
通讯作者：
P. Madsen;D. Fuhrman
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
P. Madsen;D. Fuhrman
在本文中，我们回顾并重新检查了无限长斜坡以及连接到平底的有限斜坡上周期性长波上升的经典解析解。两种情况都根据海浪相似参数和在某些近海位置确定的振幅深度比提供了最大上升和相关流速的简单表达式。我们使用解析表达式来分析海啸对海滩的影响，并将讨论与 2004 年 12 月 26 日最近发生的印度洋海啸联系起来。一个重要的结论是，对于 3-6 级的海浪相似参数，会出现极端上升与极端流速的结合，而对于典型的海啸波浪周期，这需要相对温和的海滩坡度。接下来，我们比较陡峭的不透水斜坡上破碎和非破碎不规则波浪测量的理论解决方案。对于非破浪，理论曲线优于最先进的经验估计。最后，我们将理论解与高阶 Boussinesq 型方法获得的数值结果进行了比较，总体上获得了很好的一致性。
In this paper we review and re-examine the classical analytical solutions for run-up of periodic long waves on an infinitely long slope as well as on a finite slope attached to a flat bottom. Both cases provide simple expressions for the maximum run-up and the associated flow velocity in terms of the surf-similarity parameter and the amplitude to depth ratio determined at some offshore location. We use the analytical expressions to analyze the impact of tsunamis on beaches and relate the discussion to the recent Indian Ocean tsunami from December 26, 2004. An important conclusion is that extreme run-up combined with extreme flow velocities occurs for surf-similarity parameters of the order 3–6, and for typical tsunami wave periods this requires relatively mild beach slopes. Next, we compare the theoretical solutions to measured run-up of breaking and non-breaking irregular waves on steep impermeable slopes. For the non-breaking waves, the theoretical curves turn out to be superior to state-of-the-art empirical estimates. Finally, we compare the theoretical solutions with numerical results obtained with a high-order Boussinesq-type method, and generally obtain an excellent agreement.