Investigating the materials used in eighteenth-century tapestries from the three French Royal Manufactories: inputs of hyperspectral approaches
Investigating the materials used in eighteenth-century tapestries from the three French Royal Manufactories: inputs of hyperspectral approaches
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研究法国三个皇家制造厂十八世纪挂毯所使用的材料：高光谱方法的输入
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发表时间：
2021
期刊：
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通讯作者：
A. Mounier
中科院分区：
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作者：
Hortense De la Codre;Floréal Daniel;R. Chapoulie;L. Servant;A. Mounier
17世纪末，在路易十四的第一任大臣让-巴蒂斯特·科尔伯特的领导下，有三家“皇家”挂毯工厂：奥布松、戈贝兰和博韦。这个新获得的头衔引起了关于生产挂毯所用材料质量的许多规则的建立。这些质量标准由皇家检查员和著名的卡通画家派往工厂工作，这导致了所谓的Tapisseries de Grand Teint的诞生。为了便于对这些高质量挂毯的研究，一份由600多份参考资料组成的彩色图表基于18世纪论文的公式，包括用两台高光谱相机记录的可见光-近红外和短波红外光谱。然后用这个参考数据库与本研究中包括的三个挂毯上现场记录的光谱进行比较。最终，这种方法允许识别用于织锦制造的特定材料。本文通过使用两种不同且广泛使用的方法（即通过外部和内部数据库），对三家皇家工厂生产的挂毯进行了比较分析。第一种方法依赖于通过谱角映射器与外部数据库进行比较，以便对挂毯材料进行分类和映射。第二种方法首先直接从挂毯中提取端元（纯材料的参考光谱），然后使用envi -光谱沙漏向导创建内部数据库，从而对数据进行分类。本研究强调了每种方法的效率，同时也指出了它们在鉴别挂毯纺织品和染料时由于所研究材料的特殊性而存在的局限性。例如，调查揭示了工厂之间在如何使用不同的纺织品来生产挂毯方面的差异。这种比较因此揭示了工厂的技术和美学选择以及它们的不同之处。
At the end of the seventeenth century, three “Royal” tapestry Manufactories existed thanks to Louis XIV’s first minister, Jean-Baptiste Colbert: Aubusson, Gobelins and Beauvais. This newly acquired title gave rise to the establishment of numerous rules concerning the quality of the materials used for the production of tapestries. These quality standards were ensured by inspectors of the Crown and renowned cartoon painters sent to work in the Manufactories, which led to the birth of the so-called Tapisseries de Grand Teint. To facilitate the study of these high-quality tapestries, a colour chart consisting of more than 600 references based upon formulations from eighteenth-century treatises was created including spectra recorded with two hyperspectral cameras, in the visible–near infrared and short-wave infrared ranges. This reference database was then used in comparison with the spectra recorded in situ on the three tapestries included in the present study. Ultimately, this method allows for the identification of the specific materials used for tapestry fabrication. This paper presents the results of a comparative analysis of tapestries produced in each of the three Royal Manufactories through the use of two distinct and widely used approaches (i.e. through external and internal databases). The first approach relies upon comparisons with an external database via the Spectral Angle Mapper for the classification and mapping of the tapestry materials. The second method classifies the data by first extracting endmembers (reference spectra of pure materials) directly from the tapestry and then creating an internal database using the ENVI-Spectral Hourglass Wizard. This study emphasises the efficiency of each method as well as noting their limitations due to the specificities of the materials studied in the identification of tapestry textiles and dyes. The investigations revealed, for example, differences between the Manufactories in how different textiles were used in the production of tapestries. This comparison thus sheds light on the technical and aesthetic choices of the Manufactories and how they differ.