A MODEL FOR BREAKER DECAY ON BEACHES
A MODEL FOR BREAKER DECAY ON BEACHES
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海滩上的碎浪腐烂模型
DOI：
10.9753/icce.v19.6
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发表时间：
1984
期刊：
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
R. Dalrymple
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
W. Dally;R. Dean;R. Dalrymple
根据浅水破碎波在等水深区域传播一段距离后会发生变形并趋于稳定这一观测结果，建立了能量耗散率的直观表达式。利用线性波浪理论和能量平衡方程，给出了单色波在平坦陆架、平面斜坡和“平衡”海滩剖面上破碎的解析解，并与Horikawa和Kuo(1966)的实验数据进行了比较，得到了较好的结果。然后介绍了平均水位、底部摩阻损失和任意形状的底部剖面的设置，并对方程进行了数值求解。对该模型进行了标定，并与实验室资料进行了验证，结果表明，该模型对各种海滩坡度和入射条件下的波浪衰减有很好的效果，但对设置不太有利。在一个包含两个沙坝和水槽系统的原型尺度剖面上的试验运行表明，该模式能够描述自然界中常见的浅化、破裂和波浪改造过程。与浅水和破碎相比，底部摩擦在冲浪区的波浪衰减中所起的作用可以忽略不计。
Based on the observation that a shallow water breaking wave propagating over a region of uniform depth will reform and stabilize after some distance, an intuitive expression for the rate of energy dissipation is developed. Using linear wave theory and the energy balance equation, analytical solutions for monochromatic waves breaking on a flat shelf, plane slope, and "equilibrium" beach profile are presented and compared to laboratory data from Horikawa and Kuo (1966) with favorable results. Set-down/up in the mean water level, bottom friction losses, and bottom profiles of arbitrary shape are then introduced and the equations solved numerically. The model is calibrated and verified to laboratory data with very good results for wave decay for a wide range of beach slopes and incident conditions, but not so favorable for set-up. A test run on a prototype scale profile containing two bar and trough systems demonstrates the model's ability to describe the shoaling, breaking, and wave reformation process commonly observed in nature. Bottom friction is found to play a negligible role in wave decay in the surf zone when compared to shoaling and breaking.