Mass transport in gravity waves on a sloping bottom
Mass transport in gravity waves on a sloping bottom
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倾斜底部重力波中的质量传递
DOI：
10.1061/9780872621138.028
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发表时间：
1974
期刊：
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
T. Pieters
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
E. W. Bijker;J. Kalkwijk;T. Pieters
本文从理论和实验两方面研究了底坡对前进波质量输运的影响。基于线性空气波理论的理论考虑表明，对于相对较长的波浪和陡峭的斜坡，斜坡对底部漂移速度的影响最大。然而，数值仍然相当小（影响小于20%）。此外，实验表明。在审查的案件中。海底漂移速度更多地由局部参数而不是由海底坡度的大小决定。考虑净底部速度。水平底理论（Longuet-Higgins）与实验结果之间的差异是相当大的。考虑局部波的一次谐波和小坡度效应的水平底理论，在较小水深时，与实验结果有相同的趋势。
In the present investigation the influence of bottom slope on mass transport by progressive waves was investigated both theoretically and experimentally. Theoretical considerations based on lineair wave theory show the greatest influence of the slope on the bottom drift velocities for relatively long waves and steep slopes. The numerical values, however remain rather small (influence less than 20%). In addition the experiments show that. in the cases examined. the bottom drift velocities are more determined by the local parameters than by the magnitude of the bottom slope. Considering the net bottom velocities. the discrepancy between the horizontal bottom theory (Longuet - Higgins) and experimental results is considerable. Taking into account the first harmonic of the local wave form and the small slope effect in horizontal bottom theory does show however the same tendency as the experimental results for relatively small depths.