Hair surface interactions against different chemical functional groups as a function of environment and hair condition.
Hair surface interactions against different chemical functional groups as a function of environment and hair condition.
复制标题
头发表面与不同化学官能团的相互作用是环境和头发状况的函数。
DOI：
10.1111/ics.12834
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发表时间：
2023
影响因子：
2.3
通讯作者：
Labarre L
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
Labarre L
头发表面分子间相互作用的性质和强度是配方产品设计的基础，其应用涉及阳离子表面活性剂、脂肪醇和表面活性剂（如硅酮）之间的竞争性吸附过程。与头发表面的分子相互作用的知识将不仅提供洞察力的表面结合亲和力，但也提供了一个有效的方法，在表征表面deposits.MethodsUntreated和化学处理的头发样品进行处理，无论是空调底盘单独（凝胶网络）或空调底盘加硅树脂（底盘/TAS）。使用化学力显微镜，在环境和水环境中定量毛发表面与四种不同化学官能团（即甲基（− CH 3）、酸（−COOH）、胺（− NH 2）和羟基（−OH））的相互作用，结果毛纤维在环境中的表面粘附力主要取决于毛纤维的润湿性和毛细作用力（疏水对亲水）、任何沉积物的存在和AFM悬臂的化学功能。当极性基团同时存在于头发和AFM悬臂梁上时，毛细作用力被静电相互作用所取代。一个明显不同的力，疏水相互作用，起着重要的作用，当处女的头发和疏水功能化的AFM悬臂使接触在water.ConclusionResults获得的AFM不同官能团的悬臂表明，疏水相互作用是一个关键的驱动程序沉积在处女的头发，而静电相互作用是最重要的漂白头发。沉积时基础结构组分的界面构象由毛发表面性质决定。我们的研究强调了一系列极性基团的可能性，不一定带负电荷，在受损的头发上。与传统的表面化学分析方法不同，可以定量评估沉积在头发上的表面活性剂的界面构象，这识别了用于不同类型头发上的调理产品的目标部分。
ObjectiveThe nature and magnitude of molecular interactions on hair surfaces underpin the design of formulated products, of which the application involves a competitive adsorption process between cationic surfactants, fatty alcohols and surface actives such as silicone. The knowledge of molecular interaction with hair surface will not only provide insight on the surface binding affinity but also offer an effective methodology in characterizing surface deposits.MethodsUntreated and chemically treated hair samples were treated with either conditioner chassis alone (gel network) or conditioner chassis plus silicone (chassis/TAS). Hair surface interactions against four different chemical functional groups, namely methyl (−CH3), acid (−COOH), amine (−NH2) and hydroxyl (−OH), were quantified in both ambient and aqueous environment using Chemical Force Microscopy, a method based on atomic force microscopy (AFM).ResultsSurface adhesion on hair in ambient is dominated by capillary force that is determined by both the wettability of hair fibre (hydrophobic vs. hydrophilic), presence of any deposits and the chemical functionality of the AFM cantilever. Capillary force is diminished and replaced by electrostatic interaction when polar groups are present on both hair and AFM cantilever. A distinctively different force, hydrophobic interaction, plays a major role when virgin hair and hydrophobic functionalized AFM cantilever make contact in water.ConclusionResults acquired by AFM cantilevers of different functional groups show that hydrophobic interaction is a key driver for deposition on virgin hair, whilst electrostatic interaction is the most important one for bleached hair. Interfacial conformation of chassis components upon deposition is determined by the hair surface properties. Our study highlights the possibility of a range of polar groups, not necessarily negatively charged, on the damaged hair. Unlike conventional surface chemical analysis method, it is possible to quantitatively evaluate the interfacial conformation of deposited surface actives on hair, which identifies the target moieties for conditioning products on different types of hair.