Infragravity Energy and Its Implications in Nearshore Sediment Transport and Sandbar Dynamics
Infragravity Energy and Its Implications in Nearshore Sediment Transport and Sandbar Dynamics
复制标题
次重力能量及其对近岸沉积物输送和沙洲动力学的影响
DOI：
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发表时间：
2019
期刊：
影响因子：
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通讯作者：
K. Hathaway
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
J. Oltman;K. Hathaway
摘要：本报告介绍了关于近岸区亚重力运动的教程，特别关注亚重力运动对沉积物输运和爬高的影响。这种普遍存在的低频波浪运动，周期从30秒到几分钟，通常对碎波带能量贡献很大一部分，特别是在侵蚀和沉积物输送最严重的风暴期间。讨论了亚重力波模型和研究的历史发展，以及亚重力波动力学和理论生成机制。对确定亚重力运动的实地研究进行了讨论，包括用于测量这一复杂现象的各种方法。考虑未来的研究，包括研究监测近岸形态，入射风浪和涌浪，和亚重力波进行了讨论。这些研究将有助于了解亚重力能与近岸过程之间的联系（例如，沉积物输运、沙洲生成、海滩尖点和其他周期性形态、离岸流和爬高）。附录中附有一份附加说明的参考书目。
Abstract : This report presents a tutorial on infragravity motions in the nearshore zone with particular attention given to the influence of infragravity motions on sediment transport and runup. This ubiquitous low-frequency wave motion, with periods from 30 sec to several minutes, often contributes a substantial portion to the surf zone energy especially during storms when erosion and sediment transport are most acute. The historical development of infragravity wave models and research is discussed as well as infragravity wave dynamics and theoretical generation mechanisms. Field studies identifying infragravity motions are discussed, including the various methods used to measure this complex phenomenon. Considerations for future research including studies to monitor the nearshore morphology, incident wind waves and swell, and infragravity waves are also discussed. These studies would help to understand the link between infragravity energy and nearshore processes (e.g., sediment transport, sandbar generation, beach cusps and other periodic morphologies, rip currents, and runup). An annotated bibliography is included as an appendix.