Jungle beef: consumption, production and destruction, and the development process in the Brazilian Amazon
Jungle beef: consumption, production and destruction, and the development process in the Brazilian Amazon
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丛林牛肉：巴西亚马逊地区的消费、生产和销毁以及开发过程
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发表时间：
2017
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通讯作者：
J. Hoelle
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作者：
J. Hoelle
由于发达国家富裕消费者和巴西等新兴国家“新”消费者的高肉类消费，全球畜牧业对环境的影响预计将继续增加。对国际肉类消费与拉丁美洲环境破坏之间的联系进行了大量研究，但对发展中国家的生产/破坏与消费之间的联系了解较少。在巴西亚马孙西部的阿克里州，牛肉消费的增加与当地养牛生产和环境破坏直接相关，这为在发展中国家考察这些过程之间的关系提供了机会。访谈、参与者观察和标准化调查提供了对牛肉和肉类偏好的看法的数据，以及这些与从城市环保主义者到热爱牛肉的牛仔等一系列群体的消费实践和模式之间的关系。研究结果揭示了食物的等级顺序（牛肉排在最上面）是如何映射出相似的地位和阶级等级，以及力量和营养的概念。对发展中国家牛肉消费的分析表明，牛肉既是发展的象征，也是个人、社会和环境转型和改善的发展过程的象征和物质燃料。通过深入了解发展中国家的消费者为何选择牛肉，以及在强调发展的社会和经济效益的论述中，不断扩大的拉丁美洲农业前沿的废墟和破坏是如何被隐藏、忽视或忽略的，对地方联系的研究是对破坏和消费联系的宏观和区域研究的补充。关键词：亚马逊，牛肉，巴西，畜牧业，消费，森林砍伐，发展，食物，肉
Abstract The environmental impacts of the global livestock industry are expected to continue increasing due to high meat consumption among affluent consumers in developed nations, and "new" consumers in emerging countries, such as Brazil. There is substantial research on the connections between international meat consumption and the destruction of Latin American environments, but less is known about the links between production/destruction and consumption in developing settings. In the western Amazon state of Acre, Brazil, increasing beef consumption is directly linked with local cattle production and environmental destruction, providing an opportunity to examine the relationships between these processes in a developing context. Interviews, participant-observation, and a standardized survey provide data on perceptions of beef and meat preferences, and how these relate to practices and patterns of consumption among a range of groups, from urban environmentalists to beef-loving cowboys. The results reveal how the hierarchical ordering of foods, with beef at the top, maps onto similar hierarchies of status and class, as well as notions of strength and nutrition. The analysis of beef consumption in a developing setting illustrates how beef is both a signifier of development and the symbolic and material fuel for a development process in which individuals, society, and the environment are transformed and improved. This study of local connections complements macro- and regional-level research on destruction and consumption linkages by offering insights on why consumers in a developing setting choose beef, and how the rubble and destruction of expanding Latin American agricultural frontiers is hidden, ignored, or written off in a discourse emphasizing the social and economic benefits of development. Keywords: Amazonia, beef, Brazil, cattle ranching, consumption, deforestation, development, food, meat