SEABED-WAVE RESONANCE AND SAND-BAR GROWTH
SEABED-WAVE RESONANCE AND SAND-BAR GROWTH
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DOI：
10.1038/296343a0
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发表时间：
1982-01-01
期刊：
影响因子：
64.8
通讯作者：
HEATHERSHAW, AD
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
HEATHERSHAW, AD
波浪与起伏海底地形的相互作用对海岸工程师和沉积学家具有重要意义。例如，来自海滩上的水下沙洲的波浪反射可以提供用于保护海滩免受进一步波浪攻击的机制。此外，地表水波浪与其他潮汐或波浪生成的底形（如离岸岸的沙波）的相互作用可能会改变相邻海岸线上的波浪气候。虽然已经有许多研究的海浪与工程结构，如防波堤，码头和突堤的相互作用，有相对较少的调查波浪与自然发生的底形。最近已经预测了由于表面水波和起伏的海床地形之间的共振相互作用而反射的波能的量，但没有支持的实验证据。我在这里描述的初步结果，从什么被认为是第一次公布的实验室测量的表面水波和淹没酒吧之间的共振相互作用表明，显着和大量的波能可能被反射，这些反射是由表面水波和底形之间的共振相互作用所带来的。特别是，在共振时，入射的地表水波长大约是底形波长的两倍。这些结果的影响，不仅在自然发生的底形波反射，说酒吧在海滩上，而且在一般的沉积物输运过程。
The interaction of surface water waves with undulating sea-bed topography is of fundamental importance to coastal engineersand sedimentologists. For example, wave reflection from submerged bars on beaches may provide a mechanism for protecting the beach from further wave attack. Additionally the interaction of surface water waves with other tidally or wave generated bedforms, such as sandwaves on offshore banks, may modify wave climates on adjacent coastlines. While there have been numerous studies of the interaction of sea waves with engineering structures, such as breakwaters, piers, and jetties, there have been comparatively few investigations of wave interactions with naturally occurring bedforms. Predictions have recently been made of the amount of wave energy reflected as a result of resonant interactions between surface water waves and undulating sea-bed topography but with no supporting experimental proof. I describe here preliminary results from what are believed to be the first published laboratory measurements of resonant interactions between surface water waves and submerged bars which show that significant and large amounts of wave energy may be reflected and that these reflections are brought about by resonant interactions between surface-water waves and the bedforms. In particular, at resonance, incident surface water wavelengths are approximately twice the bedform wavelengths. These results have implications not only in terms of wave reflection from naturally occurring bedforms, say bars on beaches, but also for sediment transport processes in general.